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reloaderblue
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 4:12 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 01 Feb 2006
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Location: Australia

Thanks to 16gg and hoashooter for there help via pms.
What is the general opinion of the universal charge bar v bushings(MEC)
Can anyone tell me the difference between WAA20 and WAA20F1 wads? are they interchangeable?

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hoashooter
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 6:12 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Illinois

WAA20-This is a white wad originally for 7/8 oz target loads.In a 3 inch it can be used with weights up to 1 1/4oz.
WAA20F1-This is a yellow wad with a shorter leg section.This was designed for 1 oz. loads.It will also load 1 1/80z in a 2 3/4 inch hull.
The two are not interchangable.
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bigric
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 9:33 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 26 Dec 2005
Posts: 79
Location: Round Rock, TX

I bought the MEC universal charge bar. I couldn't have been more disappointed. The quality was horrible. The stickers on the dials were not on straight, and I could turn the adjusting dials almost a full turn before it even began to resize the chambers. I took it back and got standard charge bars and about 20 bushings. Don't waste your time on it.
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Terry Imai
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 12:00 am  Reply with quote
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I have purchased the Universal for my single and progressive loaders and found them to be very workable esp if you're going to load different types of loads. Granted, there is a little "play" with the dials but I found it much easier to mess with them than trying to tip the shot/powder bottle over to remove the bar and place new bushing into them. If anyone has spilled the contents on their bottles know what a mess that can make!! If you're going to load only one recipe, bushings are okay but they are not accurate (usually on the light side). You may have to do some sanding to your bushings to get the precise load. Since I always weigh my loads, I like the Universal especially when I swith between 1 to 1 1/8 oz. target load (12 gauge of course). Give it a try but make sure you have a decent scale to measure your drops and remember that your drops may vary until you put the correct rythym in your reloading pattern.

Good luck....
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Hal M. Hare
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 4:15 am  Reply with quote
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I found that they work well with the larger gauges, but not with the .410 bore. The system does not allow the smaller cavities to center under the charge bottles or over the drop tube--but off to the side. Most pronounced in the .410 bore and results in irratic charges being dropped.

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woodcock
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 10:33 am  Reply with quote
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Location: Louisiana

I started loading with bushings a L-O-N-G time ago and had a pile of them, all of which required 'adjusting' with a reamer (occasionally even for different batches of identical powders) I now use adjustable bars on both single stage and progressive machines. I'll never buy another bushing. The .410 is, as had been said, the exception.
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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 10:42 am  Reply with quote
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Cool


Last edited by MaximumSmoke on Fri Sep 17, 2010 6:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
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bigric
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 12:46 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 26 Dec 2005
Posts: 79
Location: Round Rock, TX

Perhaps I just got an exceptionally bad bar if that many of you are using them successfully. I weigh my drops and make my own powder bushing chart because, like you said, the MEC chart is useless. Going into the universal bar I was expecting to do that as well, but there was so much excess play in the dials that I knew I'd never get the same setting twice with the same dial indicator.

Whatever you decide to do, also buy a scale. Even a cheap scale. You'll be surprised how different the drops are than what you're expecting.
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H.H. Hipshot
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 2:35 pm  Reply with quote
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I have one that I have used for a long time, before MEC put their name on it. What you have to do is approach the setting from the same direction each time in order to get consistent charges. In other words, make your final correction clockwise(or counter) each time. As has been said, you must weigh your charge to ensure the final setting is what you want.

I am about to buy another for my second Versamec 700.

Wink And yes, I have spilled shot all over the table, floor, rug, and everything else when the plug popped out of the top of the shot jar. Confused

HHH

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reloaderblue
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 4:40 pm  Reply with quote
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Thanks to everyone for there input and views on the charge bar, i will be trying one soon. I have to agree with Hipshot, i have only been reloading shot shells for a very short time and already i have shot from one end of my reloading room to the other,under every bench chair and bookcase hope i improve,but have to admit I'm having lots of fun
Cheers :

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Citori16
PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2006 10:01 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 19 May 2006
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One trick with the Universal bar I learned is to write down my "numbers" after I have found the correct weight. I also take note of which way I turn the dial and usually will overshoot about 5 digits and then back down slowly to my number to get consistency. This makes repeating a load easier. I will then run about 25 shells without crimping and weigh the middle 5 or 10 charges. Once I am satisfied I try to run at least 200 shells so I don't have to keep changing. As a spot check I will weigh a random charge and verify everything is still where I thought it was....Safety, Quality, Schedule...in that order.

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