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Joined: 02 Oct 2014 Posts: 66 Location: Iowa

this isn't 16 ga specific but you guys know a lot more about shotshell reloading than the other forums I frequent.

When I reload AA hulls in my old Pacific DL360 press, I often get crimps that fail to meet in the middle. The size of the gap or hole in the center of the crimp can be quite small, in which case, I don't worry about it. Or it can be up to about 1/8" and plenty large enough to allow those precious nickel plated #5s to roll out.

My solution to this is to place a small square of the blue, painter's masking tape over the hole. That keeps the shot in (usually) and probably doesn't affect pressures or pattern much. But it is a royal PITA. So, what am I doing wrong? Does my final crimp die need some manner of adjustment?

Thanks,
Brent

if old stryle AA , unusual . If HS AA , need to start down furthur on the crimp starter . What I usually do is always keep a fiber wad right there on the bench . If I get that hole , I break off a piece of the wad and poke it into the hole with a finish nail . Fills the hole and does absolutely nothing to the load .

Joined: 02 Oct 2014 Posts: 66 Location: Iowa

thanks for the note. The hulls are the newer AAs.

the fiber wad idea is a good one. I'll give that a try. but I'll play with my crimp die a bit more too.

Brent

case mouth folds are not fully started .Lower the crimp starter a tiny bit the hole should get smaller. lower it a tiny bit more until the sections just meet in the center. a little to much is OK then you will see a slight swirl in the center, Thats normal.

Joined: 02 Oct 2014 Posts: 66 Location: Iowa

This will sound pretty dumb but I have never adjusted those parts of the press. I bought it well used and thought they were fixed in place (they might be rusted in place). Never though about adjusting them.

Well, I'll give it a go and see if I can't improve. The pheasants on Sat/Sun will appreciate it. Very Happy

Brent

what brand of loader , what style?
To get good consistent powder burn the crimp must be tight and cohesively formed. The resistance to opening starts the burn curve on it's designed course.

Dad's answer to this problem was to drop a dab of melted candle wax on the hole. No hole - no leaking shot. Worked for me, but things were less complicated in the '50s.

I still use wax on some of my loads. Keep a candle and lighter in the toolbox by my reloaders. Very Happy

Joined: 02 Oct 2014 Posts: 66 Location: Iowa

I managed to fix the problem - mostly - by a lot of fiddling with the dies. I found that by screwing them out too far, they could leave a gap as well as screwing them in too far. Like porridge, they have to be "just right" to be work well, and even then, I'm surprised by the amount of variation from one shell to the next although all are identical once fired AAs.

In the end, the pheasants found it worked very well and I dropped 4 with 4 shots last weekend. Hard to complain about that.

Thanks for all the suggestions.