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gjw
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 4:34 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Sep 2006
Posts: 863
Location: NoDak

Hi all, so does anyone seal the crimps on your hulls? If so, what do you use that's cheap and easy?

Thanks as always!

Greg
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df
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 5:24 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 01 Oct 2007
Posts: 962
Location: Minnesota

Back in the dark ages, I sometimes melted a drop of wax on the crimp of reloads of paper hulls. I don't know that it was necessary.
I have not sealed a crimp in 40 plus years. And I have reloaded a lot of ammo.
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jschultz
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 6:01 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 1624
Location: northwewst Wyoming

A long time ago I used paraffin wax to seal paper hulls. You might try an overshot card and a drop of Elmer's glue for plastic hulls.
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robp
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 9:09 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 02 Feb 2007
Posts: 371
Location: mpls mn

RTV sealant works very well
I have also tried Elmers white glue topped with nail polish to color code ammunition
The reason I've seal reloads is to make sure the buffer stays in the round
I've used different types of over shot cards card board tyvek plastic. Typically I with put a drop of white glue inn the center of the crimp then pull it with a tooth pick to the out side edges in the creases of the crimp. Once its dry I will paint over the dry glue with nail polish
Wax works in moderate temperature but tends to fall out when the temp is in the single digits or below ( most of the time in the upper mid west!!). Bees wax seems to work better than paraffin
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Carlos
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 9:11 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 21 May 2010
Posts: 603
Location: Victoria BC Canada

What kind of crimp?

star crimp; Usually not required except to salvage an "OOPS". Then I take a pinch of "after dinner roll" (TP) and poke it into the gap of the sloppy crimp. These rounds can usually suffice for practice.

Star crimped factory field ammo; If the factory heat-fused the centre of the crimp, an over shot card might work. I usually trim the cases down to a smooth mouth and use with a roll crimp, or a Hartin crimp.

Roll, or Hartin crimp; the overshot card does the trick.

Brass cases; All sorts of glue or "water-glass" have been used to secure a tight OSC. My current favorite is a glue-gun.

P.S: If you wish to seal a reloaded field load, I like some of the suggestions above.
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Dogchaser37
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 10:21 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 08 Aug 2011
Posts: 1946
Location: Central CT

+1 with what robp said.

Use RTV to seal in buffer or seal out water. Other than those two situations there is no need to use it.

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putz463
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 7:28 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 06 Oct 2007
Posts: 2349
Location: West MI

What are you sealing against, stuff from getting in or out? I've used old out of fashion nail polish for years on most if not all of my steel waterfowl loads on crimps and primers. Pro's; more or less free, a little goes along way, easy built in brush, works great, color codes loads, if too thin leave cap off for a bit, too thick add acetone, dries fast. Con's; haven't found any yet.

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1stgun
PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2015 7:39 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 10 Jul 2010
Posts: 356
Location: Ponchatoula, Louisiana

I used wax on paper shells in times past and the tip of a hot soldering iron on plastic.
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scraggley
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2015 4:46 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 26 Mar 2008
Posts: 363
Location: connecticut

I second what putz463 writes. Also I use on primers at the same time for color coding. ( wipe off the excess with a paper towel.) Cheap enough and all various colors available.

Art

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