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Joined: 22 May 2015 Posts: 18

thank you carlos for the help and for the search I really appreciate it. but as I mentioned above what concerns me is only the length of the wad to use to seal my hulls.
I have visited the websites you gave me that are so useful and I found fruitful info in it. I thank you and I thank all the members who devoted some of the times to answer me or to find responses for me.thank you all.

Joined: 22 May 2015 Posts: 18

byrdog thanks for the answer i really appreciate it.
the loads that you gave me yes they display a little info , but they do not say anything about wads length so that what is still aches mes to find out.
why wads? if I use a less wad in mm for instance i use a thicker and a taller over powder of 7mm and then I use a wad fiber or cork of a 12 or 15mm, will this be dangerous on my rifle or wads are made just to seal the hulls or they have other impact.
If used with a less or a more extra mm will it do something? or the used wads to fill my hulls should be of exact length for each load?
for instance , and to make it clear:
If I want to reload a hull in 70mm length, with any kin of primer and powder, to load a 28 grammes of lead shot of N°7 what length of wad shall I use, or I have just to just a look inside and fill it with any wad to reach the closure and make a crimp?
if anybody could help me with that.?
thank you

Joined: 21 May 2010 Posts: 603 Location: Victoria BC Canada

Balladmaker; What do you plan to use for wads? Plastic shot cups or stacked card & fibre wads.To make successful loads with card & fibre wads you need an "Over-powder wad" which is very firm, about 2-3mm thick, and some "Cushion Wads" which can be cork, thick felt or a fibre material. With the powder below and shot above, this makes a complete load.

The height of the wadding is only critical in raising the height of the load so that the case mouth can be properly closed. If you are star crimping your shells, like most factory ammunition, the complete load should come within about 12 to 15 mm of the case mouth before closing. If you are roll-crimping, the complete load should come to within 6 - 8 mm of the case mouth, and a thin "over-shot" card placed over the shot before rolling the case mouth over to close the load. To find the precise formula you must try different wad thicknesses that result in a good crimp.

I don't know what plastic wads you can find in Europe, as precise wad selection is required to build a load of the correct height for the amount of powder & shot in your desired load.

I hope you can understand the terms I am using as I know that different words are used in French. We are trying to help despite the different materials available to you.

Joined: 22 May 2015 Posts: 18

thanks carlos for the reply
yes I do understand completely what you say and I have no problems with languages.
in some loads I find that they use plastic obterator + fiber or cork wads, why?knowing that the thickness of this plastic obterator is around 7mm?
what is the best closure roll or star crimping?
If reloading with stacked cork and fiber wads is it better to close in roll crimping or star? which wads allow me to shoot at rang of 20 to 35 meters better plastic or stacked wads?
what about brushing wads? are they good?
thanks

Joined: 21 May 2010 Posts: 603 Location: Victoria BC Canada

Many questions, Balladmaker. Generally speaking, star crimps are most common, and considered effective for most uses.

Plastic wads require a specific size for each specific shell and load. You will have to consult a recognized source to choose a combination that has been tested.

Card and fibre wads are more flexible in that you can easily adjust the height of the total wad column yourself by cutting or adding. Using a plastic obturator over the powder is good advice, as they allow the powder explosion to work more effectively providing better velocity.

When you have made a small number of loads to test, shoot them at a paper sheet at the range you expect to hit your game. I would think an evenly spread pattern of about 75 cm. would be effective, if it doesn't have many gaps. Sometimes I do a preliminary test at 15 metres and expect a pattern of 30-40 cm, evenly spread. If you judge that the pattern is sufficient, then load up what you need. Keep notes and mark the details on each box of loads.

If the pattern is too tight, then consider some sort of brush load to open it wider. I have just purchased some SPREDR inserts for this purpose as I have heard that they work well. A plastic wad has petals to protect the shot resulting in tighter patterns. Card & fibre wad columns without shot protecting petals usually make wider patterns. Test shooting is recommended as each gun and load act differently. As well you will learn what your load is really doing. Practice is never wrong.

Joined: 22 May 2015 Posts: 18

Hello carlos
thanks for your reply,could you please send me a link for the SPREDR inserts you recently bought?I want to see how they look like.
thank you.

Joined: 03 Mar 2015 Posts: 126 Location: Duluth, MN

I don't know the exact spreader that Carlos is using, but here is an example.

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/X-Stream-spreader-insert-200_bag/productinfo/3220001/

Joined: 21 May 2010 Posts: 603 Location: Victoria BC Canada

Poly wad Spredr inserts;

http://www.polywad.com/spredr-inserts.html

Joined: 22 May 2015 Posts: 18

thanks carlos for the link
so to use this spreader inserts I have to remove the petals of the plastic wads, to ensure that they wok good.
can these spreader insert work with card and fiber wads. or the patterns will be so wide?
jsorvik, again thank you for the link but the the spreader insert look different from those shown in carlos link? I did not get it what are useful for.
thank you