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<  16ga. Ammunition & Reloading  ~  MEC 9000 16 Ga. price ?
Cold Iron
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:43 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Mar 2016
Posts: 754
Location: Mn.

Just getting back into the 16 after many years and looking for a MEC 9000 and found one on ebay new in box with best offer, I offered and he came back with $609 as lowest offer. That includes shipping and no tax. I don't buy a lot on ebay if I can help it but is that about the best I can expect to do now for a 9000 in 16?

I have one of Ben's first automates and two 12 Ga. 9000 and a 20 Ga. 9000, it was a long time ago when I got them but that is quite a bit more than I was expecting. Wondering if that is about the best I can do though. I used to crank out more than 20k rounds a year for a number of years for my son and I and my shoulder just couldn't (and can't) take it anymore which is why I went with the automate when Ben was first developing it, MEC eventually bought the patent and sells it as the 9000E. Not shooting the same volume now but enough that the 9000 is worth it to me, plus I can adapt it to my automate. So if $609 is about the best I can do for a 16 Ga. 9000 I'll do it but want to make sure I'm not missing anything else out there. Thank you in advance for any insight.
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Atepac
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:12 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 17 Jan 2016
Posts: 107
Location: Cincinnati, OH

No you can do better.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/MEC-9000G-NEW-OLD-STOCK-PROGRESSIVE-RELOADER-16-GAUGE-/322001969481?nav=SEARCH

Not sure if that link will work but... 420. Its labeled as new old stock but that means new to me.

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Cold Iron
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:34 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Mar 2016
Posts: 754
Location: Mn.

Thank you, yeah that is a G which is the 100 primer tray instead of the 200 primer GN tray. Picked up the 20 9000G for $350 when they switched over. 200 primer tray isn't that expensive... I'll wait and look for just a bit longer. Have just over 4 pounds of Green Dot and quarter ton of #8's that need a home. Need some primed Cheddite hulls and DR16 wads to finish the job. With the cost of components haven't loaded the 12 in a while and have 12 flats of 7/8 oz. 12 ga. sitting on the lead pallet in the garage. I'm sure Kevin at Downrange will be glad to see me coming back. Beats $130 a flat delivered of 7/8 oz 16 ga. from RST. Even if they are from "back home". Thanks.
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JNW
PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 7:40 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 15 Jun 2010
Posts: 1358
Location: Twin Cities, MN

I bought a slightly used 9000 with the 100 count primer tray for $440 1.5 years ago and considered myself fortunate. When a used one comes up for sale it usually lasts hours, if that. Several friends of mine have bought them new and afterwords were very happy they did. New ones appear to be $640 to $700 delivered. I probably shoot about 1500 rounds of 16 gauge a year, all 3/4 and 7/8 oz. It costs me about $5 a box to reload 7/8 oz. The DR16 wad makes these loads expensive. With my amount of shooting I "paid" for my loader in 10 months, given that new 3/4 and 7/8 oz loads are $13 delivered to my house. The cost of a brand new loader would be recouped in 16 months. When I went from a Sizemaster to a 9000 I shot more 16 gauge because I could.
Do yourself a favor. Buy a new 9000GN and start loading. I wish I had done that sooner. If I had bigger guns so I could shoot 1 oz loads comfortably I would buy Herters on sale and sell the hulls.
Regards,
Jeff
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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 2:29 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1550
Location: Minnesota and Florida

Hey Cold Iron -- I had trouble finding a 16 ga. MEC 9000 for a good price, too. I finally just bought a used 12 ga. 9000G for $250 and converted it to 16. That's not a super easy exercise if you're not ready for it, and not necessarily cheap either, but I had all of the parts (cannabalized an old 650 I got cheap) except the collet, and it worked out. I also use an Automate, same as you, from the original guy before he sold to MEC. I like the original better -- you don't have to hold the buttons down for the entire stroke like the MEC version -- MEC had deeper pockets and more expensive lawyers that worried about fingers, I guess. Just like you, I bought the Automate to keep from wearing out my hand and shoulder trying to load 20,000 a year.

I totally agree with JNW on the benefit of the 9000 if you shoot a lot. I have 5 -- 4 for the skeet gauges, and the 16. I bought my 4 9000GN's when they came out for $325 each,new!!! MEC has really increased the prices as the price of reloading components has gone up. Anyway, the payoff time seems to be about the same as ever, and that's what counts.
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Cold Iron
PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 2:54 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Mar 2016
Posts: 754
Location: Mn.

Thank you all for the help! An hour ago a brand new MEC 9000GN in 16 ga. showed up at my door, Jeff caused me to break down and I ended up going for it. Got the one on ebay. A case of DR16 wads also showed up today too.

Waiting on the 500 primed hulls and should be good to go. And might be able to pick up the gun tomorrow but need something to feed it, and 7/8 oz. is about the max I shoot anymore unless it has feathers.

MS I agree, the old 2 button is better hit the buttons and while every thing is in motion grab a wad with one hand and a hull with the other. Next up is the 9149 MEC Links Kit for the AutoMate. Although I have thought about just taking the links off the 12 ga. as lately I have just been buying flats when they are on sale. And save the lead and powder for the good gauges Very Happy
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JNW
PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 7:35 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 15 Jun 2010
Posts: 1358
Location: Twin Cities, MN

Good job! You will be happy with your purchase. I have 9000s in 12, 20, 28 and .410 all on my AutoMate. Pulling the handle while reloading has given me tendinitis in my right elbow. I have not put my 16 gauge on the AutoMate for 2 reasons. First, the lower quality of the hulls, especially RGLs that have been reloaded several times, do not run through the machine as smoothly as hulls in the other gauges. Second, the DR16 wad legs are very weak and if not perfectly aligned in the wad guide they will cock. I guide the wads in with my right hand while pulling the handle with my left. Once it starts to go in straight I use both hands to finish the stroke. On an AutoMate if the wad cocks it will just get mashed into hull. You may want to set up your new 16 gauge loader manually to see how your components work for you.
Regards,
Jeff
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timcornish
PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 8:01 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Aug 2012
Posts: 13

I bought the one mentioned here a few weeks ago, 400 + shipping and 2000 dr 16s and some S16s, couldnt be happier but I am keeping my Sizemaster for 2 1/2 in shells. I probably shoot 2000 16s a year so the 9000 makes sense. I will leave it as is at 15.5 gr green dot and 7/8s oz for skeet and sporting clays and make 1 ozs on the other for bird hunting. I also load ITX for ducks.
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Cold Iron
PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 4:33 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Mar 2016
Posts: 754
Location: Mn.

Thanks for the heads up on the automate Jeff, will do! I also had some concerns with the crimp starter on new hulls on the automate so that seals it. Timcornish I also plan on 15.5 gr. of GD with the Cheddite hulls on first load. Think I will take the Mike Campbell approach and load with hotter Federals after that. Although they are a lot more money than Cheddite primers! But have found Federal primers in the cold are worth it.

Just picked up my 16 ga. 37 from fourtrax, now where are those hulls?!
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timcornish
PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 6:58 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Aug 2012
Posts: 13

I see that you are in MN. Here it is not usually cold enough to mess with cheddites unless you are up north in The San Luis Valley (-20 some mornings). The Campbell load works fine for me with cheddittes so far
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