16ga.com ~ View topic

*Last edited by skeettx on Sun Sep 25, 2016 5:10 pm; edited 1 time in total*

Looks fine and gives a good idea of the product
Mike

Joined: 13 Oct 2015 Posts: 348

I would like to take the time to write up a review of Byrdog's nice crimp starter.

Let me start by saying it's a great starter, and is the ONLY solution for adjustable start on 3" hulls on a PW375. If you load 3" hulls on the PW375, you NEED his pre-crimp starter (be sure to get the modified one based on my results).

For 2.75" hulls, the standard PW die works fine. However, Cliff's precrimp die gives much sharper folds on new hulls, and allowed me to give a single precrimp press without a lengthy "forming delay"-- I could just shove the new hull up there, get sharp creases and move on at speed. So for new 2.75" hulls, also an improvement.

Last Feb16 through Apr16, byrdog and I corresponded via PM about his crimp starters, for both the MEC and PW. Over the course of those months, he sent me three separate packages with various components to try. The majority of them, an "enclosed head" starter, he elected to bypass as not as good as his other "open head" starter.

There is a specific problem with the PW375 when you want to load 3" shells. The supplied PW die post is too long to be recessed up in the tool head enough to allow full press arm throw when pre-crimping 3" 20ga hulls. Whether you're using the plastic precrimp, the old steel ones with feelers, or any intermediary designs (I have about 4), ALL of them combine with the die post to force you to pre-crimp by "feel", stopping the arm partway down. Of course we all know this is a recipe for disaster if you're looking for repeatable consistent loads.

The first pre-crimp post Cliff sent me for the PW375 had a few design items that did not allow it to work with the 3" hulls either-- it couldn't be recessed up enough. There were two problems, first was that the die post plus the pre-crimp head was just too long in total, and clearly was made for 2.75" hulls. Even fully touching, the two parts resulted in a post that sat down too low and over-pre-crimped. Second, you couldn't actually GET the two parts to touch, because the screw holding the crimp head to the post was too long, and went up and touched the ADJUSTMENT screw coming down the post center from the top.
Oh, and there was one more thing-- the red "blob" on the front of the die meant to indicate where the die-flat was so you could position it for lock-down? It was too big and mounted too high, and actually inhibited the die from being fully inserted up into the tool head-- it had to go, so I just chiselled it off. It's remaining post insert does the job just fine-- I recommend he just drill a hole there 1/16" deep and put some red paint or something instead.

I discussed these items with byrdog, and he immediately sent me a pair of modified crimp heads which were shorter, and also sat on shorter mounting screws. THIS solved the problem! Now, with the two parts allllmost touching, and the die top adjustment screw fully retracted, the precrimp die can be recessed up enough to allow proper precrimping on the longest 20ga 3" (cheddite and Rio) hulls.

I took a bunch of pictures but of course have forgotten how to post them here, I think I have to host them elsewhere first...Hopefully my prose above is exact enough for folks to understand.

Lastly, I recently had need to send in some test loads where the crimps were all exactly 0.055" deep, not 0.058 etc., and the only way to achieve this was with byrdog's pre-crimper. It has now taken place as my permanent 6pt precrimp for 20ga or 12ga 3" hulls on my PW375.

SUMMARY:
1. PW375 precrimp is a must for 3" hulls. Be sure you get the modified "short" die head that Cliff sent me for testing; I'm not 100% sure he adopted it as "standard" since I didn't post results before.
2. Crimp head mounting screw should likewise be the "short one" he sent me.
3. If you have the red plastic blob on the die, chisel if off so it doesn't inhibit full insertion, if needed.
4. Lastly, for new hulls there is no reason to use anything but the 6pt die, it results in a much crisper set than the 8pt does (which can allow unskived hulls to buckle down across 2 points since they're so close).
5. DEFINITE BUY THIS ITEM, if you load 3" on a PW375.

Thanks much byrdog, let me know if you need any more info!

Joined: 03 Feb 2008 Posts: 830 Location: Adirondak Mtns

[quote="skeettx"]BUT he has been SO NICE to me, I will

MEC style starters Smile

[img]http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/MVC-007S33.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/MVC-008S25.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/MVC-009S27.JPG[/img][/quote]

Mike progressive or single stage. I have tried the brass version on a 650 and it was terrible.

Thanks for your reply

MEC style starters Smile

I use them on progressives and they were GREAT
I even converted one of the 6 point crimp starters to fit on my TEXAN IV Press Smile

Mike

Joined: 03 Feb 2008 Posts: 830 Location: Adirondak Mtns

Thanks, Mike.

Joe

Joined: 17 Mar 2013 Posts: 27

HOW MUCH $ FOR MEC SET & SHIPPING TO 60148? WHAT TYPE OF PAYMENT WOULD YOU LIKE? ALSO, I NEED YOUR ADDRESS. THANKS,STEVE

I am not making these any more because I have had problems with the plastic wearing at the creasers on the starters that I use. I have had no reports of this happening ellsware. I just wont sell a product that is not durable. I do appreciate all the great help.Thanks