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sharps4590
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 4:58 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 26 Dec 2014
Posts: 156
Location: In the sticks Missouri

When those Woodleigh's arrive and you get some worked up and put on paper please let us know the results. I'm always curious what has worked for others. Working with those old pieces often reminds me of the old joke about the octopus and the bag pipes.

The sight issue is a bit of a conundrum....and a bummer. This is just me but it seems it would be easier to hold under with the shotgun as to hold over with the rifle. Hopefully the round nose and/or a different powder will put it right to POA.

Yes sir, those old German U-notch and bead sights are usually fine, too fine for my old eyes. A trick I've used on literally all my old German rifles is to take a round needle file and open up the U-notch in the rear blade(s). That lets more light around the front bead and aids greatly with the sight picture. Over the years I've had to open up all the rear sights on all my rifles, cartridge and muzzleloaders. I'm not going to a scope until Mother Nature and Father Time force the issue.

Another trick for range shooting is either a Lyman or Merrit diopter. They work great also but I took to using a piece of blue painters tape with about a 3/16 hole punched in it, trimmed up and placed strategically on my glasses lens. The tape with a hole that big can be used while hunting even in low light conditions...at least as low light as open sights can be used. Often misunderstood is that generally what we think of as the nifty inletted tang sight on many of the old German rifles is really a diopter to sharpen the open sights.

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ninepointer
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:43 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 15 Dec 2015
Posts: 34
Location: Ontario, Canada

sharps4590 wrote:

Yes sir, those old German U-notch and bead sights are usually fine, too fine for my old eyes. A trick I've used on literally all my old German rifles is to take a round needle file and open up the U-notch in the rear blade(s). That lets more light around the front bead and aids greatly with the sight picture. Over the years I've had to open up all the rear sights on all my rifles, cartridge and muzzleloaders. I'm not going to a scope until Mother Nature and Father Time force the issue.


Built-in diopter; that's my lesson of the day, thanks!

I'm almost certain I know what you are describing about opening up the notch, but could I trouble you to post a photo?
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sharps4590
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 1:29 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 26 Dec 2014
Posts: 156
Location: In the sticks Missouri

nine, I'd be glad to but I know I don't have any photos in the file and for some reason photobucket and either me or my computer have had some kind of misunderstanding that's turned into a running feud....ggrrrr...and I am not computer literate enough to figure it out.

You know what needle files are, those itsy bitsy files that come in assorted shapes and almost always in a sort of kit. Usually there is a round one in the bunch and in the two sets I have it is just the right size to use to file the notch in the rear sight to a bigger opening. Ordinarily you don't want to make the notch deeper, just wider. I file to the bottom of the existing notch and stop. Shoot the rifle a few times to see how it works for you and, if a fella feels like it should be a little deeper to accommodate the front bead, take a little out at a time until the way the front bead fits in the notch suits a fella. It isn't difficult and only takes a minute or two. I hope the description is satisfactory and I apologize for not having a picture....or knowing how to post the ones I have....

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ninepointer
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 2:51 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 15 Dec 2015
Posts: 34
Location: Ontario, Canada

sharps4590 wrote:
Ordinarily you don't want to make the notch deeper, just wider. I file to the bottom of the existing notch and stop.

Perfect, that answers my question.

As for Photobucket, its not you. Photobucket is notoriously slow and glitchy. I'm thinking of looking into alternatives like Flickr or Imgur.
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Dave in Maine
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 4:21 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 12 Sep 2010
Posts: 1516
Location: Maine

Congratulations on your acquisition!

You may want to try the S&B 196 grain SPCE load. Using them in my BUHAG drilling, I've gotten 3-shot groups that easily fit within a half-dollar at 100 yards. And that was without allowing time for cooling.

The stamping on your gun "13 gr StMG" means "13 gram steel-jacketed bullet" was the regulation load. Since it's hard-to-impossible to find steel-jacketed slugs and probably dubious legally to use them (check your local laws), you'll have to adapt.

Also, handle the trigger guard carefully. Yours is made of horn and they get more delicate as they age.

Enjoy!

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Matt85
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 2:10 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Jan 2017
Posts: 8

as far as i can tell there isnt a S&B 8x57 JR 196gr SPCE. the only offering is a 196gr RNSP for the 8x57 JR. then again i had some trouble with S&B brass depositing brass shavings in my firing pin channel so i dont think id want to make regular use of this stuff.

thanks for the info on the bullet type. i dont think any one makes an .318" steel jacketed bullet these days, so that ones out. Hornady makes the DGX which is steel jacketed but the smallest diameter is .375".

i will be testing out the Woodleigh 200gr .318" round nose bullets this weekend and will update this thread if i have any luck.

-matt
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sharps4590
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:59 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 26 Dec 2014
Posts: 156
Location: In the sticks Missouri

If I'm wrong please correct me. The 13 gram steel jacketed bullet is the bullet with which the rifle barrel was proofed. I don't believe that necessarily means it was the one with which it was regulated, yes, no?

Matt, I read back through the posts and didn't see Hawk bullets mentioned. They make both 180 and 200 gr. bullets in .318. I've used some of their bullets in the past and have no complaints. As with all things rifle some of mine liked them, others didn't. Might be a resource worth looking into. One thing I do like about them is they're annealed dead soft. Consequently they aren't as hard on the softer steels of the old barrels. Given the proof date of your drilling that might not be a legitimate concern but is food for thought.

http://hawkbullets.com/index.html

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Matt85
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 11:49 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Jan 2017
Posts: 8

hawk is one of the makers im considering but they dont offer a 200gr bullet. your options are 180gr and 220gr for standard bullets but im sure if i was willing to make a bigger order they would make 200gr bullets.

-matt
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sharps4590
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 5:10 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 26 Dec 2014
Posts: 156
Location: In the sticks Missouri

Ahhh...missed that. I guess I saw the "2" and my eyes stopped there, assuming 200. Gotta watch everything...especially me!!!! Evidently they're catering to the original 8 X 57 bullet with that weight.

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Matt85
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 7:36 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Jan 2017
Posts: 8

i tried the H4895 loads today and things look promising. i had a 1" group at 50 yards with the 200gr buffalo arms bullet over 38gr of H4895. 37.5gr and 38.5gr were awful though. 39gr of H4895 wasnt as good as 38gr but still promising. i will make more of these loads and try again to see if i get consistent groups.

i also tried the 200gr Woodleigh over RL-15 but the results were less then great. i think RL-15 just isnt the powder for this gun so ill stick with H4895 and see if i cant find the sweet spot.

-matt
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sharps4590
PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 3:48 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 26 Dec 2014
Posts: 156
Location: In the sticks Missouri

Great!! Seems you're making progress with it and that's always good.

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