16ga.com Forum Index
Author Message
<  16ga. Ammunition & Reloading  ~  Reloading tinkers
Hammer bill
PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2018 4:35 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Feb 2015
Posts: 815

I started this on another thread and had a huge response. Since I'm more into 16"s thought I would see what response would be here
What is meant for is anyone revamped their loaders. Tweeked or added anything on out of the ordinary. Maybe made their own part for any reason.
Chime in if you do. Put a picture of the change if you like.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
John Singer
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:00 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 03 Sep 2014
Posts: 398
Location: Rochester, MN

One tip that I can offer is to obtain either cafeteria trays or a cookie sheet for each reloader. I then mount the tray beneath the loader. With this, any shot or powder spill is contained.

_________________
John Singer
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
skeettx
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:41 am  Reply with quote
Member
Member


Joined: 15 Apr 2007
Posts: 9455
Location: Amarillo, Texas

In earlier days, I traded out the Mec crimp starters for Pacific crimp starters.

_________________
,
USAF RET 1971-95
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Dogchaser37
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:58 am  Reply with quote
Member
Member


Joined: 08 Aug 2011
Posts: 1946
Location: Central CT

I added the metal baffle and Universal Charge Bar on both my 9000G16 and my 16 Ga. Sizemaster. I cut a 1/8" deep notch around 1/2 the circumference of the wad guide making it easier to insert the DR16 wad.

I stopped using the lubes suggested by MEC on the collet and the pivot points and linkage and now use Rock N Roll Super Web Grease. This grease stays put and doesn't make a mess and is much better for the collet.

I added the bottle supports and the new style 200 primer tray on the 9000G16.

The rest is all MEC.

_________________
Mark
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:41 am  Reply with quote
Member
Member


Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1550
Location: Minnesota and Florida

I have 16 MEC reloaders, and I use them all.

For hunting loads and experimenting with fit, etc I use MEC 600's and 700's. I have 8 of them, all in different gauges: 10, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28(x2) and.410 bore. The 24 I made myself from a combination of modified 20 and 28 gauge parts -- machine work required, not for the "un-committed". Very Happy I am committed, or perhaps alternatively I should have been!

For high volume loading I use mostly MEC 9000's. I have a stable of 5 with one AutoMate up in Minnesota for clay target games, 12, 16, 20, 28 and .410, and another stable for skeet in Arizona, with an ancient tube-type primer feed MEC 650 in 12, 9000's in 20 and .410, all used with another AutoMate, and one of the above-mentioned 600's in 28. No need to load a ton of 28's except for the few tournaments I will attend down there, and if I need to practice with 3/4 oz. of shot I can load that cheaper into plentiful 20 gauge hulls -- can't tell the difference when shot through a typical tube set skeet blaster.

I love the 600/700, as you can probably tell. I rig them with spacers for short hulls, and can load 3 inchers as well. They are plenty fast for the volumes of hunting loads I shoot. I use a crank-type measure (an old Herter's unit) for powder drops in many cases, rather than screw around trying to tune up powder bushings with a chain-saw file like I used to do. I don't file busings anymore, as I find day-to-day and batch-to-batch variations of the powders I use just don't matter in high-volume loading. I use the crank-type measure for precision in hunting loads and experiments. It doesn't slow me down much at all. MEC 600's are great for what I'll call "interrupted stage" reloading. That is, I'll resize (either with the 600, or a SuperSizer, or an old MEC Case Conditioner) a batch and re-prime them, then drop powder in the batch with the crank-type measure, then go back to the 600 to install wads and shot, and either crimp, or install a "B"-wad over the shot for subsequent roll crimping by batch (batches help keep that roll-crimper warm Wink )).

If shot is any bigger than #5 or sometimes #6, I'll measure that by dipper and weigh each charge. Again, it isn't that slow to do it that way if you get used to it. If the shot is large enough that I'd actually like to count it, I use empty primer trays as a sort of "dipper", fill the easily counted rows or block off the ones not needed and that's my charge. Trying to get shot bigger than #6 through a drop tube for any gauge smaller than 12 usually will result in a jam at some point. Fortunately, 16 gauge MEC reloaders use the same size drop tube for 12 and 16, so you can, with care get away with up to #3's or maybe even #2's, but then you have the limitations of the charge bar -- same weight charges with larger shot occupy larger volumes. Regardless of manufacturer, no reloader is immune to these problems.

I like to use the old original metal MEC Spindex crimp starters. I also use and enjoy the original MEC non-spinning crimp starters, which are similar to the big brass ones sold by Ballistic Products, Inc, but better because they have a steeper angle. I do use a BPI crimp starter on my 24 gauge shells. I dislike the modern Spindex made of plastic -- not because it is plastic, mind you, but because of it's shape: it starts the crimp with too shallow an angle; it just doesn't close the crimp enough unless you set it so low it "breaks" the "shoulder" of the crimp, which results in crimp ripples and shorter hull length in my high-volume loading (MEC 9000's). This is especially bad on 28's and .410's. I have replaced those with old MEC metal Spindexes or fixed crimpers, and a quick spin to orient the 6-point crimp folds does not slow me down on a 9000.

I have experienced no benefit from powder baffles. I use no tall bottles, even on the 9000's. If I have to tilt the powder measure back on a MEC, the tall bottles are a PITA. The more frequent filling required by the shorter bottles is not a problem for me. I do have some adjustable chargebars. They are finicky to set up, and you can spend all day chasing the perfect throws, but once you figure out there is a certain repeatability band you are experiencing, you can relax and get on with it. Once adjusted, they do stay put and drop as well as a fixed or bushed charge bar. They are a bit problematic with the .410 though, as by the time you get the powder opening small enough for these tiny charges, it is offset a bit from the drop tube, and it is rectangular as well, rather than round, and that can lead to inconsistencies. Fortunately most .410 powders flow like water, and a little jiggle or tap solves this problem. Speaking of bushing, I do bush up old fixed MEC pre-powder-bushing type chargebars for some loads. I use sections (circumferential bands) of plastic shotshell hull wall cut to fit by interference (friction) in the orifices of the chargebar. This works great. I started doing this in the mid '60's (with paper hull strips cut from nice crisp waxy Federals!) when I was a kid in frozen North Dakota, out in the boonies with no reloading supply house nearby, no internet and not even being able to order anything by phone (which then was quite a recent device in our house!). I needed something quick, and you know how it goes . . . where there's a will . . . So that's how I started "fiddling". Laughing

Cheers!
Tony
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:47 am  Reply with quote
Member
Member


Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1550
Location: Minnesota and Florida

And of course, I use a digital scale to verify charges. What a great tool, though the old balances also work great, but are a little slower to use.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Dogchaser37
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 10:19 am  Reply with quote
Member
Member


Joined: 08 Aug 2011
Posts: 1946
Location: Central CT

Tony,

Completely agree about powder baffles being used as baffles....I don't see any big difference in powder drops with or without.

I use the baffles to keep powder from migrating from between the bar and the measure assy,

As far as scales. I do have an older RCBS (Ohaus) scale but I always use a Denver Instruments digital.

_________________
Mark
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Hammer bill
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 10:53 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Feb 2015
Posts: 815

Good stuff. This is the kind of stuff that helps to educate young or beginners.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
John Singer
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 3:41 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 03 Sep 2014
Posts: 398
Location: Rochester, MN

Small plastic soda bottles have the same diameter and thread as the MEC powder and shot bottles.

I use soda bottles for shot and powder. This allows me to keep several different shot sizes and powder types ready for use.

_________________
John Singer
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Hammer bill
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:12 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Feb 2015
Posts: 815

Yes I do the same.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Dave In AZ
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 4:58 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 13 Oct 2015
Posts: 348

Lots of the changes others have mentioned.

Pencil eraser shoved in the center hole of station 3 on Mec 9000. You don't need that hole, and the eraser massively helps if you get a shell with no primer and powder comes out bottom-- now it just sits on top of station and doesn't fall anywhere, you can just dust-bust it up. This is a "MUST DO" 10 second improvement if you've ever spilled powder...
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
John Singer
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:50 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 03 Sep 2014
Posts: 398
Location: Rochester, MN

I am not a fan of adjustable charge bars in my MEC loaders.

I find it much easier to adjust powder charges with bushings.

I also can adjust shot charges by use of the use of bushings that I cut from clear PVC or visqueen sheeting. For example, I use a 1 oz charge bar with a PVC sheet bushing to throw 7/8 oz charges. I can verify the charges on an electronic scale and I can easily cut the plastic sheeting to adjust for various shot sizes.

_________________
John Singer
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
sneem
PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:42 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 19 Apr 2008
Posts: 477

John Singer wrote:
Small plastic soda bottles have the same diameter and thread as the MEC powder and shot bottles.

I use soda bottles for shot and powder. This allows me to keep several different shot sizes and powder types ready for use.



Those bottles also fit nicely in the holes on the standard Mec bottles. I cut one off and it makes a very nice funnel for filling shot or powder.

_________________
Many places remain undiscovered. Some because no one has ever been there. Others because no one has ever come back.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 10:06 am  Reply with quote
Member
Member


Joined: 01 Dec 2005
Posts: 1550
Location: Minnesota and Florida

Sneem says:
Quote:
Those bottles also fit nicely in the holes on the standard Mec bottles. I cut one off and it makes a very nice funnel for filling shot or powder.



I like that, Sneem. Thanks!

Tony
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Hammer bill
PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 5:34 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Feb 2015
Posts: 815

I've taken a small electrics motor out of a fan from a wood burner. Mounted it very close to the side of my mec 9000. Made a small counter weight for the shaft just so you can hardly feel the vibration. But the powder drops are very very close from one to another. Very constant drops
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
All times are GMT - 7 Hours

View next topic
View previous topic
Page 1 of 5
Goto page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next
16ga.com Forum Index  ~  16ga. Ammunition & Reloading

Post new topic   Reply to topic


 
Jump to:  

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum




Powered by phpBB and NoseBleed v1.09