16ga.com ~ View topic

There are some great people on this forum. I had a gun that was shooting low in both barrels, and WyoChukar walked me through the process of opening up the parallel section of the choke with a dremel tool to adjust poi upwards. I gave it a try, and it worked like magic. So now, instead of having to raise the comb up and see a lot of rib to adjust poi, it's back to a normal sight picture. What a great tool to have in the double gun bag of tricks.

Fantastic!

UncleDanFan,

The 16 forum has some very knowledgable and experienced people, glad WyoChukar was able to help you with his gun knowledge!

Pine Creek/Dave
L.C. Smith Man

Agreed. I have always felt supported on this site.

Joined: 16 Jul 2015 Posts: 2124 Location: Hudson,Wy

Glad to help. The sanding drum trick is pretty handy. It saved an unusable gun for me long ago. One barrel was sending shot way off course and well, it's been my #1 long range gun ever since.

WhoChukar -- Could you please explain the technique and tools used in some detail. I imagine you remove a bit of metal on some location relative to the direction you want to deflect the pattern, but it would be good to hear exactly how and where you do it. Sounds like good info, thanks.

Cheers,
Tony

Joined: 09 Mar 2016 Posts: 753 Location: Mn.

Shot skeet with John Singer a couple of weeks ago at Zumbrota and he showed me pictures on his phone of pattering papers for a gun that he did the same exact thing to. It was impressive to say the least.

Hopefully pickup my CZ sharptail 16 tonight and if the POI for both bbls. isn't where I want it I know a guy...

Joined: 16 Jul 2015 Posts: 2124 Location: Hudson,Wy

Well, it's a touchy procedure, in that metal removed isn't easily going back. It is best to sneak up on things very gradually. That said, the procedure involves a dremel tool and 1/2" sanding drum.

If a barrel is printing consistently one direction, lets say to the right, then we obviously want to get the pattern to move left. By removing a scant amount of metal from the left side of the opening, the pattern will shift that direction.

Now bear in mind that you are working with the parallel section of the choke (exceptions do exist where some chokes do not have a parallel section). It is important to keep the parallel section, well, parallel. This is where a bit of skill and technique come in. The tool/ sanding drum must remain square, any canting, twisting, etc. will start a taper, so be careful. It is also worth noting that as metal is removed, this must be "feathered" out, so that the muzzle exit finishes up round rather than oblong. As anyone can see, a steady hand is needed.

This endeavor is best handled where power is available at a shooting bench, but a cordless dremel is an option. It is paramount to shoot from a bench with a good rest (ultra light loads make this more pleasant!) to check exact P.O.I. after each alteration of the choke wall. A little at a time is the way to sneak up on perfect shot placement. If you go too far...well then you will be grinding out the other side. Get it wrong enough times and I suppose one could end up turning a full choke into cylinder!

The whole ordeal sounds a wee tad scary...and for good reason. But it isn't terribly difficult for anyone with steady hands and a good pair of eyes. Just remember "patience young grasshopper, patience"...