Joined: 04 Mar 2019
Location: Central Connecticut
I have a Grade I Citori stock that I would like to have refinished. I don't mind the original gloss (polyurethane?) finish because it seems very weather proof, which this shotgun must be. Are there matte urethane finishes? I like the look of an oil finish, but what happens to oil finishes in the rain?
Looking for options.
Keep in mind this is a Grade I piece of wood.
This stock has been modified to fit me so buying a new stock is not an option.
Last edited by MSM2019 on Thu Jan 16, 2020 3:53 pm; edited 1 time in total _________________ Mark
A true pure boiled linseed oil finish no, it will not be as water resistant. But very few use that anymore. A Tung oil or Danish oil is more common and can give a hand rubbed oil finish but with more durability. If you are talking hardwood floors etc. poly is going to be more durable. But for gunstocks poly eventually starts to chip and is harder to blend in and repair. So feel it is a wash and a properly done Tung oil type finish will be as waterproof and last as long. In my experience and opinion anyhow.
There are a lot of options and depends if you are going to pay to have someone do it or do it yourself. If you are looking to have someone else do it you would have to ask them what they use and options available. I highly recommend UncleDanFan I had him do my new A5 Sweet 16. He did some customization and so had to refinish it and is meticulous, I am more than pleased with his work. If I was going to pay to have someone do it he would be the first I'd go to. Same as I use Joe at Tronspace stockworks for combs and ISIS hardware.
A lot of people use Tru Oil I did back in the 70's and 80's but haven't used it since then. More into the Tung Oil camp. For awhile I did the waterlox original finish as a fill coat for durability and then Ben Matte tung oil topcoat. Last couple of decades that was a common method for doing it yourself and it works.
But lately switched to using Minwax antique oil finish from start to finish. Cheaper and easier to use and the 1949 16 ga. Ithaca 37 I used it on 5 years ago is still waterproof and finish is just as good as the day the final topcoat dried. I did more than a dozen coats. Some will say that it is only an interior finish but those are people that have actually never used it. I have used in the rain and snow for 5 years with no weather issues at all.
Started with this
Stripped it down and used Arts Herters Original French Red to get the Ithaca red back on the black walnut. No complaints except as always it is a lot of work. If you have ever done a stock then you know it is worth every penny you pay someone to do it. But when you do it yourself you can make sure it is done the way you want it to turn out.
Art's has done several for me and do a nice job . I used to have MidWest Gun Works do work for me but this last time a few months ago they did a horrible job andI had no recourse . I sent it to someone else to refinish it . Never again .
Can't help with specific finish materials but can share that my Citori Upland originally w/matte finish has polished to gloss over the years, especially high gloss on the wrist and forearm where my hands go. Also, any of my guitars that start life w/a matt finish polish to gloss at any of moments where I come in contact with them.
Not sure if DIY gun finishes see this same matte->gloss transformation.
Sharing if not already understood so you can consider this a factor in choosing finish options.
_________________ Sorry, I'm a Duck Hunter so shouldn't be held strictly responsible for my actions between Oct 1st and ice up.
Joined: 06 Nov 2009
Location: West Coast of WI
Mark, I refinished a Citori 16 some years back. The biggest challenge was removing the tough Browning finish, and it took a heavy-duty stripper from Brownell's to get it off. IIRC I used Permalyn for the refinish and it came out nice.
I know Mark Larson often uses Pro-Custom Oil and I can tell you the finish is waterproof and tough. My Iside was soaked a couple times this season and it took it in stride. I've refinished with Timberluxe and it's easy to use and waterproof.
Joined: 19 Nov 2013
Location: NW Arkansas
I haven't done any stocks finishes in a while, but back when I did I, like Cold Iron, preferred Tung Oil. The guns I have refinished with it have held up quite well through a fair amount of use. I like it.
In hindsight, I probably put more coats on this stock than I should have, or would have, If done again, but its OK. The wood is a rather strange Fajen piece that I bought in the 80s and finally finished in the 90s.
I'm considering redoing my NID after the season ends, as I'm pretty sure the butt stock finish is not original and is too red/dark for my liking, obscuring the wood. If I do Tung oil will get the call.
I used Brownell's "Pro Custom-Oil" clear gloss on my Citori Grade 1 and really like it. It is a combination of Tung Oil and Urethane. It goes on like water, and doesn't streak. It leaves a tough finish that is also waterproof. It's clear, so whatever the wood looks like bare will be the look that it has when finished, only slightly shiny. It can be shined up to be super glossy or left (as I did) a satin, almost oil finish.
If you send me your e-mail I can send you pictures of what my gun looks like. Instead of the dark finish the gun came with, it is more blond and stands out from the rest of the guns I see.
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