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Riflemeister
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 4:32 pm  Reply with quote
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One issue that a sidelock can have that you'll never see on a boxlock was shown to me when I attended Jack Rowe's Double Gun Gunsmithing class a couple of years before his passing. Jack was working on an AYA sidelock that the owner had lost one of the locks. Jack could not provide information on how this came to pass, but it did have everyone in the class trying to come up with a plausible explanation. My guess was he was out bird hunting and the hand detachable lock went rogue and bailed out somewhere in the National Grasslands of South Dakota.

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kgb
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 5:42 pm  Reply with quote
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Dave, they'd have to do a lot of shooting every year to require that sort of maintenance. Consider me doubtful that's a reason they'd request the guns be sent back annually. I could see them wanting to examine the guns for signs of abuse/misuse and to do the maintenance the owners might not be doing themselves.

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Lloyd3
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 5:52 pm  Reply with quote



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Had-detachable sidelocks are damnedably-interesting (& arguably useful) but there are clearly a few downsides to having them. Unsophisticated (& perhaps even slightly intoxicated?) gunowners have been known to [rather classlessly] display the feature in a fashion that probably causes undue wear on the jaws of the stock (& even introducing otherwise-undesirable contaminants into the workings). Frequent use can even cause the lever-equipped "pin" (a "screw" to we mere-colonials) to come loose and actually flop about (if not attended-to). Losing the pin after that would be easy to do if it went unnoticed, with the eventual loss of one (or even both) of the lock-plates. Bad Ju-Ju all around. As the English have been known to say "a gentleman doesn't service his own guns" and perhaps for good reason...


Last edited by Lloyd3 on Sat Jul 23, 2022 4:36 pm; edited 1 time in total

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double vision
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 6:32 pm  Reply with quote
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If I had best gun money I’d take mine in every year for a checkup just because I could.
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Chicago
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2022 10:58 pm  Reply with quote
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I own a number of English sidelock guns and I have never taken any of them in for annual maintenance and none of the gunsmiths I use have ever suggested they should be brought in. In case someone thinks I use poor gunsmiths I take them to Dennis Potter and they don’t get much better than Dennis. I am also pretty anal about the care I give them after every hunt or shoot.

I might add I have never had a problem with any of them, but I did have a spring break on an English box lock I own. These guns were made between 1910 and 1938.

Good Hunting,
Mike
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Old colonel2
PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2022 6:40 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 07 Jun 2020
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Brewster11 wrote:
Quote:
The difference is real in terms of simplicity, Box locks win

Old Colonel2, while I am almost in complete agreement with your assessment, I beg to differ on one small point: To me, the sidelock is the essence of simplicity. It really has to be, because other than reversing the lock plates and the means of ignition, they basically haven’t changed much in seven hundred years.

If you remove the locks and look inside the receiver, there is very little there. That’s because the locks, which are compact and contain only a few parts, are the action. It’s all right there in the palm of your hand. It can’t get any simpler. Yes they must be hand fitted, but they are simple nonetheless.

Compare that to a boxlock, in which numerous moving parts are sandwiched within and amongst each other, and often inaccessible to the user. If something inside bends or wears, sometimes the gun can’t even be opened, much less cocked or fired. The boxlock is a clever and inexpensive design but simplicity doesn’t seem to me to be one of its merits.

V/R
B.


I read your well thought out post and thought I should answer.

I agree in taking apart a Anson Deely (A&D)or similar Fox action much of it is hidden away within the receiver and difficult to see exactly how it works. The basis of my argument that the box lock is simpler lay with the average number of parts required to assemble and the number of parts in motion during the firing.

I agree that Side Lock design is much easier to discern and describe. On its face it appears cleaner and more direct. The Side Lock is often described as a hammer gun with the hammer inside instead of outside. However, despite its easier to see actions Side Locks are more complex.

Using the Anson Deely action versus the standard H&H side lock consider the action of the strikers. On the A&D the firing pin is part of the hammer so when the sear releases the hammer it moves to strike the primer and fires the gun, one moving piece, hammer, firing pin etc.

On most side locks the hammer within the lock is released by the sear, it moves to strikes a free floating firing pin which typically held in place with a set screw and a spring, several pieces versus the single piece hammer pin of the A&D.

I agree with your point about the possibility of something breaking inside the box lock and not being easily get to it to fix. My counter is the rarity of that kind of breakdown with a box lock is very rare.

In terms of safety, the typical box lock has a safety that blocks the movement of the triggers as opposed to the intercepting safety of the side lock that blocks the hammer in the lock from moving, again a more complex arrangement in the typical Side Lock, than box lock. I know there is a intercepting safety design for the box lock, but it is not seen in most box locks we encounter, and I cannot think of an American box lock that has an intercepting safety comparable to the one normally seen on the side lock.

I love both actions and use both. One advantage of the box lock I failed to note is it’s resistance to water infiltration. My rainy day guns are all box locks that have been properly oiled and waxed along all seams of the action and of the action to stock. I have done the same with my side locks, however experience has shown me when disassembling my gun at the end of the hunt the box lock is always better against the water infiltration, this has been true for three different box locks, versus two different side locks. It is why I will always own at least one box lock and use a box lock exclusively in the duck blind.
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Old colonel2
PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2022 8:08 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 07 Jun 2020
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Chicago wrote:
I own a number of English sidelock guns and I have never taken any of them in for annual maintenance and none of the gunsmiths I use have ever suggested they should be brought in. In case someone thinks I use poor gunsmiths I take them to Dennis Potter and they don’t get much better than Dennis. I am also pretty anal about the care I give them after every hunt or shoot.

I might add I have never had a problem with any of them, but I did have a spring break on an English box lock I own. These guns were made between 1910 and 1938.

Good Hunting,
Mike




The maintenance of guns during and post season is an interesting question. I apologize up front for getting down in the weeds and perhaps hijacking the thread.

It never ceases to be amaze me how much dirt, grime, and sludge filled many of the guns I have purchased were.

Like you I have never sent out my guns to be serviced post season. However that has more to do with my ability to do the work myself with a large collection of tools and gauges and experience picked up though mistakes. The mistakes I have made have taught me my limits.

My limits in general are these: I do not normal disassemble locks (beyond taking the lock plates off the gun), ejectors, or trigger groups. I generally will refresh a stock finish, but no longer do complete refinish jobs. I will do some touch up blue rarely, but never have done a complete reblue by myself.

When I do the initial service and clean it comes down to removing the stock so I can clean the metalwork. I caution persons who do not have the proper screwdrivers or understanding of how their gun is put together not to do as I do. Normally the grime and gunk will be cleaned with a ultrasonic cleaner. I then use a toothbrush and compressed air to get what the the cleaner did not get then back into the ultrasonic cleaner it goes. Once clean I go to lightly oiling to to protect from rust then. It is important to protect, it is also important not to overdo it with too much oil. I will let the parts sit overnight and wipe down again the next day, I am very wary of too much lube. Next I will go back and lube with lithium grease lightly a couple of the key moving part friction points. The 1904 Purdey instructions actually called for the use of Vaseline cut with gun oil as grease, but the lithium stuff is the equivalent for me.

After reassembling the gun I will refresh the wood finish, typically I use timber luxe.

I used to used varnish on the case hardened parts but have not in a while (if you do varnish you should clean the metal surface to be varnished with a cleaner, I use nail polish remover, to remove the oil)

My last step is to use renaissance wax on the action seams and on all wood.

In my initial cleaning of the gun I will measure the barrels out for wall thickness at the forcing cone and minimum wall throughout. I also check chambers dimensions. I will also record Center of Balance in relation to the front trigger and all the stock dimensions.

I skipped over the barrel cleaning. My process for the barrels is fairly straight forward. Initially I wet the bores with Hoppes or homemade Ed’s red overnight then a copper/brass brush on a drill, then patches with solvent then when cleaned I oil the barrels with Eesox,

I have used several different lubricant over the years, as of late I use Eesox. In the past I have used ballistal, and cleanzoil. I doubt one is uniquely superior to all others. The key thing is to use lubricants, use them sparingly.

Moving to daily use. Before I go out I will wipe down the gun with a them coat of lubricant to include running a oil patch down the bore. At the end of the day I again wipe the gun down before casing it at the truck. This helps with salts from handling.

When I get home the gun is cleaned, then three days later the bore is cleaned again (the artillery man in me believes in carbon sweat so I clean it again.

At the end of the season I clean every gun in the safe whether they need it or not, over the spring and summer I will timber luxe the stocks of the guns most used while watching TV. On the sidelocks most used I pull the locks, clean them and lub them.

Are my processes over-kill, probably. I know a guy who hunts an 870 he never cleans and is proud of that, to each their own. For me I really like my guns and care for them and my investment in them.

If disassembling your vintage gun is a bad idea for you, sending it to someone competent to do a good clean and service on a vintage gun is a good idea. Not only for the cleaning, but to have the barrels carefully inspected. Do it annually? Probably not, if heavily used once a decade maybe.
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Lloyd3
PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2022 12:27 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 17 Jan 2014
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Another variant we have only touched upon here is the trigger plate. Historically, only really produced by the Scotts (Dickson & MacNaughton) but more recently also being produced by the operations at Akus (in Turkey). If imitation is indeed the most sincere form of flattery than the triggerplate guns are truly well-loved.

[url=https://imgur.com/1wm1jLm] [/url]

[url=https://imgur.com/6OgrD5P] [/url]

[url=https://imgur.com/NBBbKFQ] [/url]

This little Dickenson of mine is the 2-gauge set (28 & .410 on the .410 frame) and it is a delight to use. Even with adult dimensions (28-inch tubes and a 14 3/4-inch LOP) it only tickles the scales at 5lbs4. Initially very inexpensive (I've got very little money in this Cabela's version) they have become more realistic in price (~$2,500 for a good example, the last I looked?). The triggers will need to be addressed (usually too-heavy from the factory) and mine needed a bit more finish on the wood (initially a little thin) but during last year's 16-gauge ammo drought, I employed mine regularly and really got to enjoy it. As a modern firearm, it easily digests whatever ammo you would wish to feed it.


Last edited by Lloyd3 on Sun Jul 24, 2022 5:37 pm; edited 3 times in total

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Pine Creek/Dave
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 11:14 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 17 Mar 2017
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kgb,

The instruction on the Best Brit guns that came with the guns never set up any criteria for how much the gun should be used, before the yearly maintenance tune up was done. I often wondered about that myself, The Boss gun we owned went back for maintenance 3 times that I know of, during my Grandfather, Father and my life times.
My Father would always joke about having to spend money on the Brit Best guns to keep them in perfect working order. All our L.C. Smith and LeFever guns never had a tune up of any kind. I have to admit the LeFever guns had adjustment screws to make sure the gun was always in perfect shooting order, our L.C. Smith guns never needed any kind of tune up no matter how much they were used. My Great Grandfathers Pigeon gun was used in the pigeon shooting games, and later my Grandfather used it to both shoot Pigeons, Trap and to hunt with, it would be impossible to know now how many shells were run thru that 1900 L.C. Smith Pigeon gun, and I would love to own one of the few 16 gauge L.C. Smith Pigeon guns. The 12 gauge still works perfectly even today.

The hing pin on the L.C. Smith gun is safe guarded by the engineering of the Brown Rotary Bolt, a completely different engineering design than any Brit or German Best gun. View Master Gun Maker Nick Makinsons film, he explains how the engineering design works. LeFever had his own built in adjustment engineering design to keep his top level guns in perfect working order. Both these gun designs were far superior to any of the Euro gun designs at the time, especially for longevity gun usage. Both guns had so much hand fit and finish work that even Tony at CSMC did not try to make a true reproduction of either gun.

Pine Creek/Dave
L.C. Smith Man

L.C. Smith America Best - John Houchins & Nick Makinson

LeFever double gun design - one of Americas Best also.

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Chicago
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 1:23 pm  Reply with quote
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Quote:" Are my processes over-kill, probably. I know a guy who hunts an 870 he never cleans and is proud of that, to each their own. For me I really like my guns and care for them and my investment in them.”

A friend of mine (now passed) owned an entry level O/U Beretta 20 ga gun. I hunted with him for over 20 years and the only time that gun was even just wiped down is when he hunted with me. After I cleaned my gun I would always wipe it down for him and then slip it back in the gun sleeve. In all those years I never saw that gun malfunction once and that speaks highly of Berreta.

Good Hunting,
Mike
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Dave in Maine
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 5:23 pm  Reply with quote



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The reputation of British guns needing to go back to the makers for maintenance every year is pretty well undeserved, at least in modern guns. It also reflects on the overall state of technology and the level of use when those guns were new.

A hundred years ago, there were no shotcups. Barrels accumulated lead.

A hundred years ago, primers were corrosive.

More to the point, the sheer volume of shooting a British gun went through in a season of driven pheasant shooting, and red grouse in Scotland, and partridge on the side is far beyond what contemporary guns go through, other than those used for that purpose. And most are not.

Think about it for a second: how many of you shoot more than a box of shells at game in a season? Excluding hunting doves? How many shoot more than a flat? Go shoot driven pheasants in England and one might easily shoot a flat of shells over a weekend. Maybe more. And those are max pheasant loads, not light trap shells. Do that for a season and see whether the gun needs at least a checkup. Shoot that much and then see whether you might feel your gun needs at least a look from the gunsmith. (I wonder how many American guns, be they LC Smiths or hardware-store-specials, could hold up to that use.)

Moreover, the makers had a vested interest in making sure their guns were reliable beyond question. All the makers of English guns were more or less small businesses. As makers of luxury products, they were susceptible to the whims of the marketplace. And few people are as whimsical as wealthy people buying luxury goods. It is a near-habit for people like that to blame the maker (or anyone but themselves) for the failings of whatever product happens to displease them, even when the failings were entirely the buyer's/owner's fault. (Consider the old saying "treated like a rich kid's toys". It's obviously the toymaker's fault it breaks, not the spoiled brat's for throwing it against the stone wall.) In that market, one owner badmouthing your product would be enough to kill your business. Even when it was the purchaser's fault.

So the makers - in their own self-interest - undertook to encourage their purchasers to send the guns in for service after the season every year. This made sure the guns were properly maintained - and the maker could not be blamed for failures the same way they could had the owners been Bubba-ing their own guns (assuming they could or would lower themselves to actual work). It also prevented Bubba from getting his mitts on many fine guns, meaning they've survived in high condition for us to use. And it gave the employees something else to do to fill slack spots in the calendar. Kept the owners coming back to chat with the salespeople and maybe buy another new gun. Built relationships.

This kind of send-it-back-for-maintenance still exists. A few years ago, I worked for a while at the factory of a luxury car maker in Europe. Outside the office building where we worked there was a line of parked cars waiting for service. These were owned by wealthy purchasers. They would send them back to the factory for things as minimal as oil changes and wiper replacements. This was not "necessary" in the sense the manufacturer had many qualified, certified maintenance specialists all across the continent, certainly more "local" to the wealthy owners than the factory. But, the factory and salespeople had an easy sell telling the wealthy owners the service would be done perfectly at the factory so, for a few (to them) Euros more, they went along with that. And the owners had better things to do than go to the auto parts store to get replacement wipers, not that they would have lowered themselves to doing maintenance themselves.

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16'er
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 6:08 pm  Reply with quote
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I’m under the decided and committed opinion that owning several examples of each is prudent! Very Happy

As far as trigger pulls go, there are plenty of boxlock target guns and double rifles o the market. In a carried upland gun, boxlock triggers work just fine for me. I’ve never missed a bird due to the triggers on a given boxlock.

Serious volume clay shooters have their guns maintained every year. Talking K-guns and P-guns here.
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Pine Creek/Dave
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2022 12:37 am  Reply with quote



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16'er,

I believe you just made my engineering design point for me, even the modern Euro guns need to be tuned up from time to time, Box Lock or Side Lock. Our early 1900 L.C. Smith Pigeon Gun has never needed a tune up in over 100 years, Neither does the LeFerver gun design, need tuning up each season.

I own very few Box Lock guns now, I do have a nice Trigger Plate Huglu 200A, built very similar to the Beretta engineering design, it's SST is also pretty much identical to that of the Beretta. My CZ Bob White G2 is a Box Lock double DT gun, that has given me no problems so far. We will see how she does longevity wise. The triggers are definitely not equal to the L.C. Smith triggers and do pull a might harder than I like, however for a modern off the shelf gun they are acceptable. However if the gun was a L.C. Smith, I would send it back to have the triggers made correctly.

all the Best,

Pine Creek/Dave
L.C. Smith Man

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nj gsp
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2022 8:31 pm  Reply with quote



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Lots of good discussion in this post. I am fortunate to own several specimens of both sidelock and boxlock guns, and if we're talking American doubles, I have a few.

These are my observations; on the sidelock guns, the inletting and wood-to-metal fits are tight and nearly flawless. The same goes for the boxlock guns.

Are they the same? No, the sidelock gun stocks are far more complex in design and no doubt required hand fitting. Due to the amount of wood removed to accommodate the sidelock design, the stocks are inherently weaker than the boxlock design. The commonality of stock cracking in sidelock guns is clearly documented evidence of this fault.

The boxlock design is stronger and more stable, offering better support of the metal receiver and greater resistance to the forces of recoil. Is it also easier to manufacture and fit correctly? I would say it is.

The necessity of hand fitting is not the hallmark of engineering or design excellence, rather it is indicative of poor design - a design that requires such tight tolerances and/or inconsistency in manufacturing that it is inherently inefficient and costly to fabricate.

The L.C. Smith is a fine gun, but I would not place it on a pedestal any higher than a Philadelphia A.H. Fox or Parker. I would even say it is no better or worse than a higher grade Ithaca or LeFever. I've seen some beautiful examples of all of these, and I would venture to say that each likely has a unique design feature or quality of manufacture that is superior to the design of some of the others, but one specific gun or model or grade is not significantly superior to the others in ALL ways.

Everyone is allowed their favorite and for me that is the 16 gauge, regardless of manufacturer.
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Brewster11
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2022 11:54 am  Reply with quote



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At the risk of stretching this thread beyond the breaking point, one element not touched on here is reliability. In my view, reliability is the Achilles heel of boxlocks. Perhaps because they invite low cost manufacturing, boxlocks, especially the economy versions suffer vastly more failure modes than side locks.

All manner of maladies affect boxlocks, far more than sidelocks. I’ve witnessed boxlocks not fire when they are supposed to, and firing when not supposed to (I.e. slam fires and doubling). The fall open when you want them to stay closed (like when firing), and stay closed when you want to open them. Sometimes they can’t be locked closed. The pins won’t cock after opening, or stay pinched against the primers after firing. Routine maintenance doesn’t always address the causes of failures. Usually it is simple wear and repetitive stress.

Yes most of these flaws are caused by poor quality control, but the inherent mechanical complexity and tight quarters in the boxlock action contribute to the risk of failure. I won’t touch on the brands that seem to exhibit these ills but the names are quite familiar. I confess that I frequently associate with the type of people that, like myself, have owned and shoot these inferior instruments, but I suspect there’s more to it than that.

B.
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