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< 16ga. Ammunition & Reloading ~ Sizing, or ? |
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Posted:
Thu Aug 29, 2024 7:41 am
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Member
Joined: 19 May 2006
Posts: 377
Location: Too far south in New England
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Glad to hear the problem is solved.
For single stage work, like hunting loads or complex wad type loads, a Sizemaster is the way to go. I wish I had bought that instead of my 600 jr all those years ago, but it didn't matter to me back then. It can obviously be used for bulk simple loading but it's way more time consuming compared to a progressive. The issue comes in with a repeater (semi or pump) where the action moves the shell out of the magazine into the chamber, as you have found out.
If the spacer trick is working for you may as well keep doing it. As far as I know, you can't add a crimp finishing station without some major alterations if that's even a possibility. You may be able to get a cheap 600 and swap out the crimp station for a crimp finisher...hmmm
In my humble opinion, for both the bulk and specialty loads I do, the perfect setup (using MEC loaders) would be a 9000 and a Sizemaster. I make do with a 9000 and a 600 jr. When I am resizing for specialty loads I run the hulls and prime them on the 9000, perform my drops & initial crimps on the 600, and IF necessary finish the crimps on the 9000. My 9000 is setup for practice loads, and you can halt the drops, so I typically have the bar adjusted to my powder and rarely touch it.
I have gotten by with a Supersizer, the 600 jr, and an altered 650 which does have the finish station, but that's now relegated to backup for the 9000 in case of a catastrophe like the apocalypse. I have not touched it since it was evicted from the bench. I have most of the parts necessary to convert a 3-1/2" 12 ga Steelmaster to 16 ga 2-3/4" Sizemaster, but just haven't convinced myself it should be done...I keep thinking I might need to make a special pterodactyl load to run through the 935. |
_________________ "You keep saying that word. I do not think it means what you think it means" - Inigo Montoya |
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Posted:
Mon Sep 09, 2024 5:34 pm
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Member
Joined: 02 Feb 2007
Posts: 1754
Location: Central Missouri
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Lachmiller resizer .
Problem solved.
Regards Nick |
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Posted:
Tue Sep 10, 2024 10:16 am
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Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1356
Location: Western WA
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I use the poor man’s crimp finisher with the 600 jr: Lower the lever 3 times when crimping, turning the shell a third of a turn (120 deg) each time. No more lopsided or flared crimps, just a nice factory smooth tapered crimp.
Adjustments to the crimp punch depth are sometimes needed with different loads.
B. |
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Posted:
Tue Sep 10, 2024 11:58 am
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Joined: 24 Jun 2013
Posts: 2085
Location: canandaigua - western n.y. (formerly deerhunter)
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B11 - the trouble I run into is that the crimp finisher adj is down all way , and won't round off the crimp . The depth doesn't help the round off , therefore the washer . |
_________________ Molly sez AArrrooooooah ! |
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Posted:
Tue Sep 10, 2024 3:07 pm
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Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1356
Location: Western WA
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Understand. It’s a pity there’s not a greater range of adjustments on the 600 crimp station. The available adjustments are woefully inadequate.
B. |
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Posted:
Tue Sep 10, 2024 4:38 pm
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Member
Joined: 19 May 2006
Posts: 377
Location: Too far south in New England
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Agree, so much so that I typically prefer to crimp newer hulls in the 600 but will run multi-fired hulls through the crimp stations on the 9000 if I feel the need.
Additionally, I took the resizer mechanism off of my 600 and just left the de-primer. I use the de-primer occasionally but mostly use the 9000. |
_________________ "You keep saying that word. I do not think it means what you think it means" - Inigo Montoya |
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Posted:
Wed Sep 11, 2024 6:38 pm
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Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1356
Location: Western WA
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Citori16, good idea to remove the resizer from the 600. I also remove the priming seat as well, makes for cleaner and more consistent crimps.
B. |
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Posted:
Thu Sep 12, 2024 5:10 am
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Member
Joined: 19 May 2006
Posts: 377
Location: Too far south in New England
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Interesting, I never tried removing the primer seat. I’ll have to try it next time I use the 600, which will hopefully be soon as I need to make some match loads.
Another thing that helped me with the 600 is to make sure the turret (top plate) is exactly parallel with the base. Helps to keep the crimps symmetrical. After a large number of reloads things can wiggle out of place, especially from depriming. |
_________________ "You keep saying that word. I do not think it means what you think it means" - Inigo Montoya |
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Posted:
Sun Sep 15, 2024 12:27 pm
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Joined: 27 Jan 2016
Posts: 510
Location: Oswego, Kansas
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I have had a similar problem with my loads fitting in the chambers of some of my double guns. I replaced the sizing ring on my Mec 600 and it helps but still the fiber wads that I load are thick enough that the hull is swollen enough to make them hard to chamber. I have a solution using my old Lee Load All to run the loads thru the full length crimp die to make them perfect.
There might be other ways to fix it but I used what I had since I have more time available than money to buy more equipment . |
_________________ Sweet sixteen forever
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Posted:
Sun Sep 15, 2024 1:42 pm
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Joined: 09 Feb 2015
Posts: 836
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[quote="Byron Whitlock"]I have had a similar problem with my loads fitting in the chambers of some of my double guns. I replaced the sizing ring on my Mec 600 and it helps but still the fiber wads that I load are thick enough that the hull is swollen enough to make them hard to chamber. I have a solution using my old Lee Load All to run the loads thru the full length crimp die to make them perfect.
There might be other ways to fix it but I used what I had since I have more time available than money to buy more equipment .[/q
uote] many types of hulls made today are much more plyable. Even though today's hulls are thicker they don't have near the strength of the old 16 AA cf hulls had. |
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