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I changed my favorite 1 1/8 oz. load simply by putting in a mylar strip to protect the shot by minimizing lead contact with the barrels. I set the board up and paced off 35 yards, fired and was amazed to see a hole big enough for a pheasant to fly through. One shot is not inclusive and I'll load up some more in all my favorite loads and see how they pattern. Anyone ever have a similar experience?

Joined: 06 Aug 2009 Posts: 960

jschultz,

Believe it or not, but mylar, drives pressures up, like you wouldn't believe. The lowest pressure gain that I have experienced is 1,000 PSI and I have seen some loads over 2,500 PSI.

There is too much written about the top of the shot charge being unprotected and scrubbing the barrel walls. That is nonsense.

When the powder starts to burn and the load accelerates, the shot coulumn is set back into the wad by some amount. Second the top rows of shot are not under the same set back forces and they don't scrub very much any way.

Mylar is fine when it is used in loads that were originally intended for it. The more mylar that is exposed to the bore, the higher the pressures go. The heavier the load that you are using mylar with tend to push the pressure up also.

Just asking, but why mylar? Are you using it for turkey hunting? I don't know of any reason to use it except in heavy loads of shot for tight patterns. Or with some thin steel shot wads to stop rub thru.

There are some that just love to sell stuff to put in a shotshells, claiming huge performance differences. Stuff like, mylar, buffer, motor mica and graphite. Unless you develop loads around the first 2 magical items you will do better, not using them, because they drive pressures up. The last two are snake oil, I checked Motor Mica and Graphite out in every type of load and while there were velocity increases, it was 10 or 15 FPS. That ain't worth a look.

Sorry I got long winded but, junk in a shotshell drives my BP up.

My outlook, is hull, primer, powder, wad, shot, crimp. If the load needs anything else, it is wasting my time, money, or both.

Member Joined: 08 Nov 2005 Posts: 3438 Location: Illinois

Forget the mylar and go back to your favorite load--2nd on adding the excess--I have tried all the extras-with limited success--if it ain't broke don't fix it---MAYBE in some specialized applications it would be worth the added pressure,expense,time and trouble Rolling Eyes

--but not for me Wink

rerundogchaser37 wrote, "Just asking, but why mylar? Are you using it for turkey hunting? I don't know of any reason to use it except in heavy loads of shot for tight patterns."
Thanks for the caution on pressure. I didn't think that I would be running a risk by inserting mylar, and I wasn't trying to improve a perfect patter either. I was looking to keep from having to clean the lead from the barrels. The load is a low pressure recipe tested by Tom Armbruster for velocity and pressure.

RMC brass hull
Win209 primer
32 gr. IMR4756
1 opc
1 1/2 cw
1 1/8 oz. shot
1 osc
1325 fps 9620 psi

I also use 3 different loads for an RMC hull using Win209 primers, Unique 21.5 gr., Herco 23 gr. and Universal Clays 21.5 gr. each call for an SP16 one piece wad and all three give very good patterns. No lead in the barrel with these loads.

hoashooter, I don't spend a lot money, but I do spend quite a bit of time attempting to perfect my hunting loads. I enjoy the process and the 8 loads that I patterned today are in my tumbler getting a shine put on them.

Member Joined: 08 Nov 2005 Posts: 3438 Location: Illinois

Right---it's not the trip it's the journey Very Happy

EVERY factor will effect shot pattern chilled vs magnum shot,primer,how even the handle is pulled,is the wad straight??,did I use the same lot # of powder,condition of the hull,etc--ENJOY--The only way is to experiment-a chrongraph is inexpensive and more valuable than the other gimmicks on the market that try and improve what is already good--as a sidenote slower powders work best for me as far as improving patterns Wink