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Joined: 28 Jan 2007 Posts: 129 Location: hong kong

I recently picked up Green Dot to load the DR16 wad. I have not had very good luck with the powder. About 20% of my shells are either off sounding, with some being so slow that I can see the lead.

I am using a Grabber with a zinc baffel so had expected very consistent loads.

At the club today I was told that Green Dot does not throw consistently if the humidity is high. This sounds plausable as we have had a very humid summer.

From the boards experience does this sound like the possible reason and if so is this keg of powder now wasted due to exposure to humidity?

Secondly if you have any suggestions I would appreciate your insight.

Ajax.

Member Joined: 16 Nov 2006 Posts: 1338

Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 596 Location: 17603

ajax,

I'll second Mike on it being a good powder, and it's more than likely your loader/equipment is the problem, or the amount you're using. I've been running a 7/8oz load with the GU1621, in Cheddite hulls, that crushes clays.

Alliant 2004 data has a 1oz load, Fed hull with a 209A primer with 19gr of Green Dot @ 9800psi.
I'm using 19.4gr of GD, Rio primer, GU1621 wad in a Cheddite hull with 7/8oz of #8's lead. NB! NOT TESTED!

But, with a 12% reduction in payload, and 2% powder increase in a large capacity hull, I figger I'm bound to be within safe pressures.

I use at least 2-3 jugs a year too, and now with the above load being a favorite at the clays course with the 16ga, I'll be picking up another 8#er soon.

Cheers,
R*2

Member Joined: 02 Oct 2004 Posts: 425 Location: Maine

+2

Use ~16# (2 jugs) of GD every year in 16g, 1 and 7/8 oz. loads, and light 20g loads. Only issue has been inconsistant drops when humidity is low, ie. wintertime, and the solution was to hang a dryer sheet in the powder bottle on my MECs.

Mike has it right you should not be experiancing any problems with the powder , I would change out the baffle to the plastic PC baffel though it is a much better product .

Best Regards

Charles

Joined: 06 Aug 2009 Posts: 960

If you check out and confirm that your reloading equipment and methods are on the money, here is another idea.

I have a feeling that your load data is on the low side pressure wise. Just a gut reaction to your post. The reason I feel that way is that to my knowledge Alliant hasn't published any Green Dot data for the DR16 wad.

Please understand, I am not making any comments about anyone's reloading experience, just sometimes things don't workout the way we think they should.

Green Dot is a little slow for some light 16 gauge loads and you just might have to use a little more than you think to build the pressure for consistent ballistics. That and try to light it off with one of the softer primers and you will have the problem you are experiencing.

Like Mike said, check the amount of powder being dropped. In the past I have found the bushings really far off. Mostly on the low side. I, now, don't have any bushings in any of my MECs; adjustable bars now. The bushings were just to much trouble. If you use the bushings; drop at least ten loads, weigh and get an average weight. Adjust from there. Next bushing up or down. If the next one up is to much. Lap the one you were using. Lap, put back in machine, drop, weigh........... You will get the idea. I have used Green Dot for 40+ years. Works!!! Good luck. Desert Dawg

Here is another vote for Green Dot. When using your baffle, be sure to remove brass & rubber washers. Check spring loaded tip of baffle to be sure it is not worn out. Most seem to prefer the red plastic baffle, but I have had good results with both. If you are seeing stray powder flakes sticking to inside of bottle you may need to ground press (static electricity). I have developed habit of reaching up and tapping powder bottle after inserting fresh hull on plate whenever I use a flake powder or bottle begins to run low.

Joined: 06 Aug 2009 Posts: 960

Back to your reloader for a minute.

MEC Progressives have a knack for wearing out the bar actuator and the bolt, that it pivots on. Be sure that the bar is running all the way to the left on the downstoke of the handle, the bar screw should just touch the powder measure assembly, if not that is a possible problem. You can make the adjustment on the actuating rod that hangs off the right side of the press, just run the nut up the rod a bit to regain the full travel of the bar. This adjustment is overlooked and more important than many folks realize.

If that screw is more than 1/16" or so away from the measure assembly on the full downstroke, it can really mess up the powder drop.

It's tough when you get over 50, you just can't remember all the stupid stuff sometimes. Sorry for not remembering in my earlier post.

Member Joined: 16 Nov 2006 Posts: 1338

Member Joined: 28 Oct 2005 Posts: 665 Location: Louisiana

Thank you, thank you, thank you....I thought I was the only one Embarassed

Joined: 28 Jan 2007 Posts: 129 Location: hong kong

Gents, thank you for your insight.

First a little more on my set up and then I will summarize my learnings.

The load was one that was submitted by this group, forgive me for not recalling who submitted the load for testing...

-3/4 oz #7 1/2 magnum lead shot (Lawrance)
-Cheddite Blue 16 ga. Hull
-Win209 Primer
-19 grains Greendot
-DR16 wad

Fps: 1315, 1358, 1350 (AVE 1341, sd 22, ev 43)
PSI: 7800, 8800, 8600 (AVE 8400, ev 800)

7/8 oz #7 1/2 magnum lead shot (Lawrance)
-Cheddite Blue 16 ga. Hull
-Win209 Primer
-18 grains Greendot
-DR16 wad

Fps: 1281, 1270, 1268 (AVE 1273, sd 7, ev 12)
PSI: 10300, 10200, 10200 (AVE 10233, ev 100)

The 3/4 load has been better than the 7/8 ounce load, but both have blooper issues.
( I am using a green Cheddite hull)

My grabber is brand new, less than 2000 loads through it so while wear is not an issue, set up might be. I am using a multi scale bar.

My plan.
1) run 10-15 shells with existing set up (out of curriosity), weigh for deviation
2) check the powder baffel ensuring that the brass and rubber washers are removed (I think they are installed Embarassed

)
3) check the grabber adjustment on the actuating bar.
4) Run powder into 10-15 shells, and see how they measure out.

If I am still having inconsistent measures I will remove the baffel and try again (I don't have a plastic baffle, so will try without before hunting one down).

I will try this tonight and report my findings. Thanks again for your input.

Ajax.

Ajax,
I had a few bloopers at first with the DRwads. I then noticed the wads were trying to collapse as they were going thru the wad guide fingers resulting in the gas seal portion becoming cocked causing the bloopers. My solution was to take the ole sharpie pen and stick it in the 1/2 closed mouth of the hull and wobble the heck out of it, then go for the powder sta. and then follow with the wad. problem was solved for me. Might work for you.

Griff

Joined: 06 Aug 2009 Posts: 960

Stack10

Just a question.

Why would the cimp end of your hulls only open a little?

Doesn't the deprime punch open and iron the hull mouth completely open?

Mark,
These are RGLs hulls, they all seem to almost close up after a few reloads and become more brittle. some times I have to give them the same treatment to go in the deprime as well , then give them another before the powder and wad sta. This is with 600 jr. Takes a lot more time. May be I reload them too much.

Griff