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Joined: 12 Sep 2010 Posts: 1973 Location: Maine

I'm considering the purchase of a 2-1/2in chambered 16 SxS. The issue is short-hulled ammo.

I know there are a number of companies making short-hulled factory loads, and that's where I plan to start. A flat of RSTs mixed between 7-1/2s and 8s will do the trick for a while, I'm sure.

My issue concerns reloading. I'm planning to get into reloading shells. I've shot a lot of 12 ga and have built up about 1k of empties of various sorts, mostly promotional loads, neatly sorted and stored with the boxes they came in. I'll get some training out of reloading those and using them for trap. My inclination is to get a Lee Load-all (don't laugh) b/c I do not want to mess with the complexities of a progressive press (and I'd rather spend my bucks on powder and shot and shooting).

But, as to reloading 16 ga shorties, I'm confused as to how to crimp them. As I understand the reloading presses out there, they accommodate crimping either a particular length of shell or a shell longer than that particular length. In other words, as I understand it, one can use the same press to reload a 2 3/4 inch shell or a 3 inch shell or a 3 1/2 inch shell, but not a 2 1/2 inch shell.

So, first, is that understanding correct? Or is it merely my misunderstanding of reloading press mechanics?

I suppose I could go over to reloading the shorties with a roll crimp, but that (as I understand it) would mean tossing the once-fired factory loads b/c it's inadvisable to use folded crimp hulls to reload wth a roll crimp (more than once).

So, how does one go about getting a proper crimp on a short hull?

I also understand one can get "new" (unfired) short hulls and then cut them down to the appropriate shorter length before loading and giving them any kind of crimp - roll or folded. I suppose I'll ultimately wind up going that way, but I'm gonna start with factory loads, first.

Maybe I'm shaving pennies a bit too thin, but those shavings add up after a while. And I live in Maine, where one can't escape being this way because it's in the water.

Please give me your thoughts on this quandry.

Joined: 26 Apr 2010 Posts: 3181 Location: NCWa

I've not used a Lee, so can't say how they work on short shells; but all I needed to do for my PW to load short shells was to get an extra 16 ga die that was shortened a 1/4" and adjust the remaining stations to the lower position. Very easy to readjust either way.

You will have no problems pie or star crimping a 2 1/2 inch hull.
You can make a VERY nice shell.
The MEC, Hornady, and Ponsness Warren all do well.
And you can use the same press to do 2 1/2 and 2 3/4 inch 16 gauge.
Mike

My only 16 is a 2 1/2" gun.

Reloading is not issue at all. While it's not the cheapest way I bought the MEC short kit and it works perfectly, just like you were reloading 2 3/4" hulls.

I either use 2 1/2" hulls or cut down 2 3/4" hulls to 2 1/2" with a homemade cutter using a dowel, an exacto blade and a screw - it works as well or better than any "bought" cutter. This cutter was described in a thread on this site some time back.

I don't believe that the Lee will work well with 2 1/2" hulls - I got rid of mine and replaced them with MEC Sizemasters because the MEC are so much better.

Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1460 Location: Eagle, Nebraska

If you buy a MEC Jr, you can buy a "short kit" and fold crimp as normal.
I roll crimp almost all of my loads regardless of length.

In fact right now I load just about all short hulls as my 2.75 loads fit in the short hulls if roll crimped.

You just need to find a filler to raise the hull high enough to crimp the hull. I believe that Mike Campbell uses a Quarter and a penny epoxied together.

I just use a coin under the platform for support and a washer on top . Basically the same set up as Mikey's and costs about the same . I usually got some open end wrenches in the vicinity , and if the shells start getting sticky , just use the wrench to hold em down . LOADED MANY !

Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 728

2-3/4" - 2-1/2" =1/4" The crimp starting station on a LoadAll will most likely work with no modification; two 1/8" thick metal or hard plastic shims (or one 1/4" thick) at the final crimp station should finish the job. The shell holder at the final crimp station on a LoadAll has a couple of mounting screws in the sides so you might need longer screws there. No more than $5 at Home Depot.

If you plan is to hunt with the 16 gauge, may I suggest an alternate way to solve the 2 1/2" shell problem. Purchase and load RMC 2 9/16" all brass hulls. A press is not required because simple hand tools are all that is necessary, start up cost are below the cost of a press and the hulls will withstand over 3,000 reloads. I have been using all brass shells for my hunting loads in gauges 28, 20, 16 and 12 with great success.
Recently, a friend bought a 16 gauge Parker with 2 1/2" chambers. He purchased RMC brass hulls and the optional tool kit. He is in the process of patterning and velocity testing his 1 oz. and 1 1/8 oz. loads.

Member Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 1975

On the Loadall if you are going to load 2 1/2" you should cut off about 1/2" on the tube of the crimping station. The brass will stick in the tube.I use a washer from a shock absorber mounti that si used on the rubber grommet.

Member Joined: 19 Oct 2009 Posts: 166 Location: Erwin, NC

You could also probably use some scrap 1/4" luan and place it under the shellholder platform on a MEC. All you would need is a jigsaw to cut the curves to fit.

UDF - maybe we can make a project with a metal guy and develop a coating that'll turn them purple ... OOPS sorry Mike !

Joined: 27 Nov 2010 Posts: 9 Location: MN

I use my Lee Loadall for the 2 1/2 16 ga hulls. I use it mostly for priming & resizing. I either cut off the the 2 3/4" hulls or buy the chedite 2 1/2" hulls. I think the last bunch I got was from Precision Reloading. Grafs also has them at times. You can just build your load and rool crimp it. I like the old time crank crimpers and you can get them on ebay or at a local gun show. Might take a little looking but they are out there. Otherwise you can buy the ones that go on the end of a drill from BPI or other sources. If you are going to shoot the same gun all the time you don't have to resize. I load nitro and black powder for these hulls. If you need a spreader you can roll crimp poly wads disk as an over shot card.

Joined: 12 Sep 2010 Posts: 1973 Location: Maine

Well, folks, I can't thank you enough for all the info and encouragement. (I'll probably be back with more questions and such as this unfolds....) I went and sprung for the Lee over at Cabelas the other day - they didn't have it in stock so I'll have to wait a couple weeks but that's no big deal. It doesn't seem to be too much of a rigamarole to load 2 1/2s as opposed to 2 3/4s.

I really like the brass shotshells, but the price is a bit much even though they are seriously cool. I'm going to pass on them, though I may come back to get a box of the Magtechs (for hunting) if I can wind up using a shotcup wad in them. I don't like scrubbing lead out of barrels. For now, I'm going to stick with plastic/paper. I, too, would love for more manufacturers to make their 16 ga shells in purple. I may wind up buying Federals just for the purple. Is there any way to anodize brass to be purple?

As a side note. When going to Cabelas and ordering something for later delivery b/c they don't have it in the store, if you don't believe in credit cards (like me), you wind up either paying today to get it later, or signing up for something they call "Pay me Later". The latter is basically a loan agreement with an interest rate of something like 29 percent and late fees that made me gag and a contract that makes the contract for the purchase and sale of a house look simple. I was reading the terms and conditions and quit when I got up to section 16 with its numerous paragraphs. You wind up having to give your name, social and a bunch of other information, but it was the pages and pages of T&C (all on the computer) that put me off. Just saying.