16ga.com ~ View topic

Joined: 01 Jan 2014 Posts: 74 Location: SW Ohio

Proud owner of a new to me Ithaca 37 16, full choke (unfortunately not mod). Got it from a buddy who has had it for years. I wonder what you guys think I should have paid for it? I think I did ok, not a steal. I think either the buttstock was shortened a tiny bit( doesn't feel bad to me at all and I have long arms) or the buttplate isn't the right one. Obviously it's been off b/c the screws don't match. Anyway I bought it to use not put in a show. What do you think? # 2617xx.

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Joined: 01 Jan 2014 Posts: 74 Location: SW Ohio

Sorry the pics r crappy( iPhone )
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If you are happy with what you paid, that is all that matters, not what we think you should pay.

From what I can tell from the pictures,(not much I'm afraid), it looks good, if the LOP is too short, install a good looking recoil pad.

Main thing is YOU ARE HAPPY.

Way to go Wink

Dale

Joined: 09 Dec 2012 Posts: 697

That gun was made in 1949 !

http://www.ithacagun.com/pdfs/serialnumbers.pdf

Can you please get some better pics to share ?

I think you did just fine. These old guns are a joy once you get them tweaked to what you want. And if you just wanted it and don't intend to do anything other than keep her in the safe and fondle it every once in a while, that is cool to, I have one of those myself.

It is no one's business what you paid for it. The same discussion about value is going on about Ithacas over on ShotGunWorld. Some folks think that a new in box 1960 16ga that surfaced sold for too much (it had the box, papers, bill of sale documenting its provenance, etc)

As was said above, if you think you got a good deal, you got a good deal.

Here are a couple things to consider

1. those old buttplates shrank. I have a few in a box that I took off that were too small. get a tape measure and measure from the middle where it attaches to the receiver to the middle at the butt and if it measures right around 13 1/2 it has not been cut I measure 3 of mine that I know have not been cut and they all measured right around 13 1/2 when measured down the middle

if it has, I have a couple suggestions such as a new old stock Ithaca sunburst pad, I know who has some of them for 35.00 shipped

if it hasn't, you have to be careful about buying a reproduction. some of them were copied off one that shrank so they are too small to begin with.

out on eBay, you can buy new old stock (NOS) ones from the King Ferry era that are large enough to have fit, still say Ithaca gun, end up looking really good, just aren't period correct. that is what I have been putting on my guns

there are a couple manufactures, you just have to watch their measurements if you want a period correct on. by the way, the bottom screw is not correct, the top one is. the factory used Philips head wood screws

what looks really cool is to replace them with blued round oval head wood screws of the correct size. I am working on a source for myself, once I get it worked out, I will let you know if interested

2. lots of options to do with a full choke barrel, depends on what you want to do with it

2a. have it reamed out to a more usable choke

2b. have choke tubes installed

I am going through that same dilemma myself. I have a 1952 that I am restoring with a full choke barrel. other than maybe using it to shoot trap, I would not have any use for a full choke barrel, I have never shot trap and from what I can say, if you don't reload, it would get expensive quick to shoot trap with a 16ga gun

There are a couple good places to have choke tubes installed.

a. Briley will install chokes that I believe are built for your gun, I have a friend that had Briley put chokes in his 16ga (I believe a 1948) and he is quite satisfied. they are a bit pricier

http://www.briley.com/

b. Mike Orlen will install chokes of the type sold by Colonial Arms. you can do a Google search for Mile Orlen and find his contact information. his pricing is pretty reasonable, as are Colonial choke tubes. My 16ga barrels as made by Ithaca in the King Ferry era use Colonials

c. this gentleman here

http://theshotgunshop.net/index.html

will build custom thin wall chokes, and or open the choke up and lengthen the forcing cone. I spent quite a while with him on the phone the other night and I have no disagreements with what he said. I was able to relate each of his points over to my BPCR rifles and (in my opinion) all his practices and beliefs are valid

I am thinking of sending my barrel to him. I believe he said it would be 125 to open the choke up and lengthen the forcing cone. he said he precision bores what he does, and having been a tool and die maker when I was younger, all his reasoning is valid for what he told me

he has written some things up and posted on his website. they are interesting, I would suggest you go take a look

Joined: 01 Jan 2014 Posts: 74 Location: SW Ohio

Thanks for all the info! As usual, very helpful indeed. Did not expect 1949, its in pretty good shape, must not have seen a ton of rough treatment. I am considering having the choke opened up, I like to rabbit hunt on foot (no dogs) so a full choke makes it a challenge to hit a rabbit that is trying to break the sound barrier. The top of the reciever almost has a texture compared to the engraved sides, kinda different, i dont have any experience with Ithaca so i assume this is normal? Will try to take some pics with better lighting.

Joined: 09 Dec 2012 Posts: 697

Joined: 09 Dec 2012 Posts: 697

By the way, did you tell me where in southern Oh you are and I am simply suffering from CRS ?

I live just outside Akron.

I also use my Ithaca 37 16ga guns for rabbit, squirrel and other upland game.

I started hunting again last year after a long layoff and was toting a 12ga. Had enough of that, found my first 16ga in a pawnshop and it has been downhill after that.

It is hard to own just one after you get to appreciate them.

Very nice!

Joined: 01 Jan 2014 Posts: 74 Location: SW Ohio

Dave, thanks for the plethora of information! I am in the cincinnati region of OH. Looks pretty clean internally, need to shoot it so I can see how she does. Looked at the choke options you layed out and the briley option seems pretty awesome! Not cheap but the 3 choke system sounds tempting. I hear ya about the issue of the 16ga fever, its like you need every one you run into Laughing

Joined: 01 Jan 2014 Posts: 74 Location: SW Ohio

Measured the stock, right at 13.5 so i guess the pad just shrunk, weird.

Joined: 09 Dec 2012 Posts: 697

Joined: 09 Dec 2012 Posts: 697

if your gun did not have the magazine plug in it, get a short piece of 5/8" dowel from Lowes or Home Depot, etc and cut it off at 6" then bevel the ends.

that will keep you legal if you want to get some doves or other migratory birds while walking around

I made up a bunch a while ago, all my extras have been given away

Vintage Gun Grips has 2 sizes of the Ithaca old style buttplate On the site the larger one is labled as Ithaca Model 12,16,20ga Buttplate, The smaller one is labeled as Ithaca Double Barrel Shotgun Buttplate . The labeles are WRONG they are Model 37 Buttplates The dementions are on the site. I have used a lot of these and they are quality reproductions that look exactly like the originals .

Joined: 01 Jan 2014 Posts: 74 Location: SW Ohio

Byrd,dr,cheyenne,gil thanks for the replies! A stupid beginner question Embarassed

How do i know if a model 37 is a feather weight? Are they all? Pardon my ignorance

Joined: 09 Dec 2012 Posts: 697

They all are "Featherlights" however there are 3 different distinct receiver styles, the sizes for the different gauges notwithstanding. the receivers in the different gauges (I am not sure about the 28ga yet) are all the same width, the difference is in the height. that is how the slide that carries the bolt is the same across the 3 as is the triggerguard assembly. the bolt, and the rest of the internals are gauge specific

1. the original steel receivers, for 2 3/4 chamberings only

2. the "magnum" or receiver that is used for the 3" chambered guns. it is, from rough measurement, 1/4 inch longer

3. the aluminum receivers, these were the ultra-lights. you can identify these because the serial nbr starts with ULT or UTL always..........

so far I have only seen 20 and 16 ga guns as the Ultralights

here is a link to see the ULT-prefix on a serial nbr

http://www.gunsamerica.com/UserImages/4197/937001445/wm_5901532.jpg