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Boats
PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 11:58 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 09 Sep 2014
Posts: 105
Location: Virginia

Mentioned my hull vices in another post, Here is a photo. Had one vice surplus, other one off ebay. I can clamp 4 gauges 20 through 10. Unseen is a thin piece of leather to add friction.

[URL=http://s492.photobucket.com/user/pontoon225/media/Hull%20Clamps_zpspbdssct0.jpg.html] [/URL]

Use these for all sorts of Hull conditioning & Roll crimping. Changing gauge only takes a few seconds.

That wood tool in the drill press works great for re-conditioning cases that have been roll crimped. Shaft is inside hull size tailored to exact gauge and goes deep with no taper. The store bought aluminum tools only contact the mouth. Made out of Wood it builds friction fast, Hull gets so hot it becomes plastic, shut the press off and let it sit for a few seconds before removing takes the shape of the plug when it cools. Just like new. Although that 10 G hull is new, just cut down from 3 1/2 inch to 2 & 7/8 inch on the table saw. Tool is ironing out the burr left by the saw blade.

Boats


Last edited by Boats on Tue May 26, 2015 1:53 am; edited 2 times in total
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skeettx
PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 12:13 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 15 Apr 2007
Posts: 9463
Location: Amarillo, Texas

And I made an eccentric insert for the post of my drill press for an extra pully to slow the quill WAD DOWN



Mike

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Boats
PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 5:44 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 09 Sep 2014
Posts: 105
Location: Virginia

When I am roll crimping I run the press slow. And the roll crimp tool is metal which does not build heat fast. It's when I want to re-condition the mouth of a fired roll crimped hull I want heat to bring it back to shape.

Here is a fired and re-conditioned. Those10 G Hulls are on There 6th load now. Did 50 lost one to a split. 10's being real hard to find worth saving

[URL=http://s492.photobucket.com/user/pontoon225/media/As%20Fired%20and%20Conditoned_zps0lvrq6wl.jpg.html] [/URL]

Boats
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