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<  16ga. Guns  ~  Model 12 refurb -totally COMPLETE
dilly
PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 7:37 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 15 May 2011
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Location: Ontario, Canada

Hey everyone. I am into my second model 12 restoration. The first one I did turned out nice, but its a short chamber 1923 with a full choke, so I don't use it much. I picked up a 1954 field model in need of some TLC. I donated the flat bottomed forestock from it to the older gun and made it into a tournament style forestock. The one I'm working on now is the one on the bottom.

I had the barrel cut back to 26" (it was a 28" full ) and Briley chokes installed.

I used it for a season and decided to re-stock it. I ordered a wood set from Scattergun Stocks and went through the hoops to get it into Canada. It pretty much bolted on. Just had a couple small tweaks.

Once I got it fitted. I started into the finish sanding.

I have oiled the forestock and am pleased with the grain.

I am currently shaping and finishing the rear stock. Its trimmed for length and being fitted for a Kick Eez pad.

I know this project may make no sense to those who like the patina of an old gun or those who consider it sacrilege to modify an old model 12. This gun was a plain old full choked field and it will be a shooter for me. The money I have spent so far will never be recouped, but I have no intention of selling it anyway. Future plans include checkering, some kind of rib, maybe some engraving...and a re-blue. Smile


Last edited by dilly on Mon Oct 24, 2016 4:09 pm; edited 3 times in total

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Two Pipe Shoot
PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 8:11 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 25 Jun 2008
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Location: Wisconsin

That wood job is fabulous! What nice grain. Reno

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Hyckory Styck
PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 8:50 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 30 Jun 2015
Posts: 43
Location: Mississippi

That is gorgeous wood. Not every old gun has to stay like it is. Making an old gun like new again is a rewarding and enjoyable task to me. It has always been my opinion that a well done restoration shouldn't hurt the value of a gun. But, alas, I am in the minority with that opinion.

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Browning Citori 723 Lightning 16, 26" Invector
Winchester Model 12, 16, 28" full
Savage Fox B 16, 28" full/mod
Revelation 16, 28"

A gun should be made of steel and wood, not alloy and plastic.
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16gaDavis
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 6:08 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 24 Jun 2013
Posts: 2062
Location: canandaigua - western n.y. (formerly deerhunter)

you aren't as far in the weeds as you may think !! Winchester used to make a grade that was plain barrel , but with skeet type stock and FE . I've done a few like that and liked them OK , but have gone back to the old style wood for no great reason !

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canvasback
PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 6:27 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 12 Mar 2012
Posts: 684
Location: Ontario

Dilly, you are an inspiration! I already own a very high condition M12 16 from 1958. But later this month as I pass through Winnipeg on an extended hunting trip, I will be picking up my father's M12 16 from 1957. Owned since new. And in TERRIBLE condition. As long as the gun would fire, that's all he cared about.

I'm not about to sell it as it's sentimental value is far greater than the $200 I might get for it in current condition. That is some stunning wood you got. As someone who has imported whole guns from the US, how difficult is the importation of parts like the stock?

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1921 Pieper 29" 6 lbs 10 oz
2003 Citori White Lightning 26" 6 lbs 10 oz
1932 Husqvarna 310AS 29.5" 6 lbs 7 oz
1925 Ferlach 29" 6 lbs 7 oz
1923 Greifelt 29" 6 lbs 1 oz
1928 Simson 29.5" 6 lbs
1893 Lindner Daly FW 28” 5 lb 11oz
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dilly
PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2015 4:13 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Ontario, Canada

canvasback wrote:
That is some stunning wood you got. As someone who has imported whole guns from the US, how difficult is the importation of parts like the stock?


Thanks Canvasback. I think it would be pretty cool to fix up your Dad's old gun. I used Prophet River this time. Very easy (albeit kinda slow) process. Bobby at Scattergun Stocks was great to deal with too. Cost me $50 to import it.

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dilly
PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2015 4:33 pm  Reply with quote
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Update to the project. I got the stock fitted and finish sanded. Did it all by hand using sanding blocks and foam pad except for a little shaping where the pad married to the butt. I used an orbital to made it nice and smooth there.

I knew the grain looked good but I always love the first wipe of oil.

Here it is with the oil applied. It is a good match to the front in colour and grain pattern. A few coats of tung and then its time to lay out the checkering.

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manofthewoods
PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2015 8:05 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 03 Sep 2007
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that wood is great.

I'm thinking of doing a wood upgrade to both my 12ga and 16ga. Both were made in the early 20's and in excellent condition. But, alas "plain Jane" wood w/o checkering. Both guns deserve way better (solid ribs on both) The 16 I picked up last fall, and I swear is brand new/never fired (almost).

Not really a practical project, but, a mans gotta have a hobby (admittedly, I have too many - just ask my wife Confused )

Thanks for posting, you're an inspiration.

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Hammer bill
PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2015 9:26 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Feb 2015
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I've got a mod. 12- 16 I had since a kid. Added a rib and reblued it 3 times. That's how much I've used it. Ducks, geese,rabbits, grouse, pheasants, trap, sporting clay.
I have another with two barrel set. Matching ser.#'s Full & cylinder. bore. I added new wood and ribs to all of them but have not got to the checkering yet.
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dilly
PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 3:02 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Ontario, Canada



Checkering is underway. This is the first time I have done 22LPI and it is tough. I got all new heads thinking it would be better to work with, but the sharp cutters don't leave any room for error. Overall I'm not too bummed as it is after all just a hunting gun. I guess when you are the one doing it, you know where all the screw-ups are.

I'm leaving the foregrip till last. Hopefully the heads will have dulled down a bit and become a bit more foregiving.

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JAE 16
PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 4:17 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Martinsburg WV.

Nice job Dilly!!!!!! Can't wait to see forend when done.
You will always see the goof ups but it sure looks nice from where I'm sitting!!!!!

Jason
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fn16ga
PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 6:02 pm  Reply with quote
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Looks good to me , the finish is very nice also . What did use on it, just tung oil ?
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dilly
PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 6:09 pm  Reply with quote
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fn16ga wrote:
Looks good to me , the finish is very nice also . What did use on it, just tung oil ?

Thanks for the kind words guys. After not looking at it for a day, I now see it looks pretty good. I guess I was sick of looking at the lines.

I use linseed oil thinned by half with turpentine for the first sealer coat. It really soaks in. Then I use straight tung oil after that. I did the "slurry method" with 400 grit wet/dry paper to fill the pores. First time trying it and it worked really well.

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fn16ga
PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 6:44 pm  Reply with quote
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Man that really looks great , BLO or raw linseed oil ?
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dilly
PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 6:58 pm  Reply with quote
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fn16ga wrote:
Man that really looks great , BLO or raw linseed oil ?

First coat is BLO and turpentine.

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