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JPearcy
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:00 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Nov 2011
Posts: 55
Location: TN

I'm totally new to reloading but excited to get started. I've purchased the 16 gauge reloading manual from BPI and have gathered some other reputable recipes as well. Nonetheless I have a few questions:

1. It is my understanding that I can use virtually any modern hull with any recipe. In other words the hull portion of the recipe is flexible and will not adversely affect the recipe; is that correct?

2. Does using a different primer than what the recipe calls for (ie. Remington instead of Winchester) adversely affect the recipe?

3. I've been informed that 11000PSI is the max pressure for 16GA but some recipes I've came across equate to as much as 11500PSI; should I avoid loading those pressures higher than 11,000?

I'm sure there will be more questions to follow but lets start with these.

Thanks!!
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hoashooter
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:13 pm  Reply with quote
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No-Yes-Yes
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JPearcy
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 9:23 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Nov 2011
Posts: 55
Location: TN

hoashooter wrote:
No-Yes-Yes


Would you mind to elaborate?
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Winchester21
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 10:45 pm  Reply with quote
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Your best advice and information can be found in Lyman's 5th Edition for Shotgun Reloading. It will be the best value for the money spent. It has detailed sections for loading a variety of different manufacture's hulls and wads, along with various powder and primer combinations.

The main advice (CAUTION) is to keep with published data that has been thoroughly tested and proven safe. Sometimes the powder amount your equipment is able to throw may be slightly off (not an exact match) but a little smaller amount is not a problem.

But what this manual also has is very good tables and explanations of what happens when you change primers - and it can be dangerous unless you know what you're doing. It goes into detail about all the components and how changing them affects not only velocity but pressures. Unlike rifle and pistol cartridges, shotgun shells do not readily show signs of excess pressure. The primers won't flatten like they do in centerfire cartridges but when you get gas blowby at the primers you've gone way beyond what is safe.

The best advice I can give is to thoroughly study the reloading manuals and their cautions before you begin doing any shotgun reloading. But once you get started on the right path it is a lot of fun. But go slow and concentrate on what you're doing and develop a good rhythm and sequence. And be sure to put a new wad into the wad holder before you index your progressive presses - its too easy to "think" you did and its a pain in the ass when you load the shot directly into the powder.


Last edited by Winchester21 on Wed Sep 30, 2015 10:50 pm; edited 1 time in total
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eng-pointer
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 10:48 pm  Reply with quote
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In shotshell reloading every component is specific to a recipe. There are hulls that are straight walled hulls such as cheddite and federal to tapered hulls like Remington but they are not interchangeable.

Primer selection is also specific to each recipe. Changing primers can and will dramatically affect the load.

I tend to keep pressure under 10000 but you will get different opinions on ideal pressure.

In the end until you are very experienced do not substitute components. It is not worth the risk!

Just to make things more difficult different hulls work well with certain wads but not with others and the same with primers. Spend some time reading on this site and look for recipes that people have had good luck with.

Sorry I am typing this on my phone which is a pain in the rear so I am being brief. Have fun learning as reloading is a rewarding hobby in itself and feel free to ask questions.

James

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A fine gun is nice. A fine bird dog is essential. JTF

"My degree of optimism is negotiated daily" Bill Snyder, Former Head Football Coach, Kansas State University
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putz463
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 1:50 am  Reply with quote
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Winchester21 wrote:
Your best advice and information can be found in Lyman's 5th Edition for Shotgun Reloading.


Agree! IMO, no rookie reloading bench should be without this manual, fantastic beginner to advanced reference.

All good stuff so far; go slow, ask questions (a lot of forthright talent hangin around here), concentrate, get a scale and use it, try to dedicate a work space to the hobby, keep the bench somewhat organized, stick to the recipe.

Welcome to what I hope you'll find as a rewarding hobby + there is great reward in crushing a clay or eating a meal that was done with your own ammo.

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byrdog
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 4:12 am  Reply with quote
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always use the listed components never change the list.

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fn16ga
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 4:16 am  Reply with quote
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Good advise so far and do get the Lymans 5th

One other thing , decide on what kinda loads you want first ( 1 oz , 7/8 oz , ect and what speeds you want ) and pick data for that type or types of load . Then buy your components . Lot easier this way , instead of buying a bunch of components then trying to come up with a load. Keep it simple at first.

Good reading here http://www.armbrust.acf2.org/primersubs.htm

Or anything by Tom Arburst for that matter.
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Charlie16ga
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 4:34 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Aug 2014
Posts: 924
Location: Eastern Tennessee

Sounds like I'm about 18 months in front of you.

All I can add is that learning reloading is a constant layering process. Books will give you loads and a base of understanding. They also go deeper on components, but this and other online boards will push you to the next level.

I started 'stiff' sticking to books, but lately I've become more comfortable with my knowledge base. You will stress about crimps, accuracy of your powder weights, primer pocket size, loose hull elements, the diameter of your hull rims, powder migration, and the safe limits of each gun just to name the lions share. Past all this stress is a better quality ammo that can be tailored to your use and gun patterns.

The 2 issues I needed board help with the most were wad/hull/powder combinations that cause migration (an issue the books don't help you with well) and the use of filler materials on printed load data.

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16' Brown A5
15' Brown White Light Citori
13' Brown Upland Spcl BPS
02' Rem 870 Exp
53' Rem 870 Wing
53' Mar 90 DT
50' Mar 90 DT
47' Rem 31L
46' Win 12 (2)
33' Rem 31
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jschultz
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 4:37 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 1624
Location: northwewst Wyoming

As mentioned above, get Lyman's 5th, select your loads and make use of a pattern board to verify that the recipes you have loaded pattern well at the distances you shoot. I suggest the pattern board because not all recipes will pattern well, as barrels have a mind of their own.
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JPearcy
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 11:16 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Nov 2011
Posts: 55
Location: TN

I've got Lyman's 5th in my shopping cart ready to purchase now!!

Thanks for the info!!

Would any of you veterans mind sharing some of your favorite load recipes in this thread?
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Roadkill
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 7:31 pm  Reply with quote
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Where are you located in the Volunteer state?
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JPearcy
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 7:48 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 29 Nov 2011
Posts: 55
Location: TN

Roadkill wrote:
Where are you located in the Volunteer state?


Knoxville!!

#GoBigOrange

How about you?!
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Charlie16ga
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 5:17 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Aug 2014
Posts: 924
Location: Eastern Tennessee

Big orange! I didn't know texas was in Tennessee.

Razz

_________________
16' Brown A5
15' Brown White Light Citori
13' Brown Upland Spcl BPS
02' Rem 870 Exp
53' Rem 870 Wing
53' Mar 90 DT
50' Mar 90 DT
47' Rem 31L
46' Win 12 (2)
33' Rem 31
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eng-pointer
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 9:41 am  Reply with quote
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I thought Texas was burnt orange with an emphasis on Burnt.

James

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A fine gun is nice. A fine bird dog is essential. JTF

"My degree of optimism is negotiated daily" Bill Snyder, Former Head Football Coach, Kansas State University
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