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16gaugeguy
PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 6:35 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 12 Mar 2005
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Location: massachusetts

My post is not about a shotgun, but it's related to finding the best loads for a problem gun. This one is about one of my problem children--my Thompson/Center 45 cal Hawken.

I bought the T/C Hawken used in excellent overall condition back in 2006 for shooting targets w/ round balls and perhaps maxi balls for hunting. Being a 45 cal model, they are a bit rare, so I was happy to find one w/ an excellent bore and crown at a truly excellent price. The bore looked about unused.

At the range, the gun refused to shoot even mediocre groups w/ .440 or .445 round balls regardless of patch thickness, powder charge, or choice of lube. Maxi balls went all over the paper--horrible. I was crushed. Several disappointing tries later, I cleaned the gun up for storage and put it away. My job duties became more demanding shortly after this time, and the gun was forgotten until last week.

I'm retired now and looking to restart my old hobbies and past times. While scrumming around in my long stored black powder junk, I found a partial box of Hornaday .451 cal swaged round balls, and the light in my noggin clicked on.

I decided to give the Hawken another go after lo those many years. so yesterday,
off to the range I went w/ a can of Goex FFFG powder, a supply of cotton drill patch material in various thicknesses, some moose milk patch lube and some home made wonder lube, and all my usual BP paraphernalia.

Turns out that old 45 cal Hawken is a tack driver w/ the right ball/patch/lube combo. A .451 ball patched w/ .012" thick drill (compressed thickness) lubed w/ moose milk over 60 grains of FFFG BP cuts one hole groups at 50 yards w/ open sights from the bags. Swabbing the bore between shots w/ 91% rubbing alcohol is a must, and starting the patched ball w/ a mallet and a short starter is mandatory, but I'm good w/ that. Anything for good groups is my motto. Glad I did not totally give up on that old gun. I'd have missed out on something special.

so if you have a few problem children in your own collection, perhaps giving up is not the answer. Keep on thinking and trying. You just might crack the code and turn that problem child into a shooting prodigy. Very Happy
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Brewster11
PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 8:49 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 1310
Location: Western WA

16gg,

Great report! I can't seem to wrap my head around how a patched ball fired through a rifled barrel can be so darned accurate, but hey, it wasn't that long ago that the whole British Empire couldn't figure it out either, about how some guys with Kentucky rifles could pick off Redcoats at 250 yards when their own Brown Bess muskets "may as well fire at the moon" at that range.

Well done,

Brewster
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Lloyd3
PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2015 10:19 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 17 Jan 2014
Posts: 1381
Location: Denver, Colorado

Good story. I haven't fired any black powder weapons for many years out here, even though I have had a .50 Hawken lefty flintlock by Charles Dailey that was a Christmas gift (from over 30-years ago) that was just setting in my gun cabinet. The last week of the year last year (after Christmas) I went back to visit w/the wife's family in "the old country" (Pennsylvania) and took to rifle to have something else to do while back there. I had to re-learn just about everything about blackpowder shooting and then work up a load w/sabots (now legal there & my brother-in-laws current pet load). The rifle was always fairly impressive (once you figured out the correct fill-level for the frizzen), but it shoots shockingly well with those sabots, and at distances I wouldn't have ever tried with just a patched ball. I'm going to try it again this year and I am really looking forward to it.

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Savage16
PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 7:27 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 30 Nov 2011
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Location: Minnesota

Have you tried FFg? I used it in my 45 Hawken and still do in my 50 with great groups.
My hardest one to figure out was a Ruger 44 semiauto. Started with loads using bulk Rem 240 HP. Trying several combos didn't help. Litterally had patterns, not groups. Switched to Win 240HP's and bingo. Touching to in the same hole at 50yds. Same results in friends Ruger 77/44 bolt carbine.

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16gaDavis
PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 8:02 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 24 Jun 2013
Posts: 2067
Location: canandaigua - western n.y. (formerly deerhunter)

the math doesn't add up - a 451 and a patch should be about impossible to load !! It almost sounds like the gun is a 50 and the 1st tries were just loose . Could be the barrel is oversized - never sure about these things ... I was looking for a 45 for an old Traditions trapper awhile back . The only ones in the country a guy nabbed Tripp *** had and when I talked to him to order one , he was sooo excited I was going to use patched balls . He guaranteed a 1/2'' at 50 yards . They are accurate - just have to do the sweat like you did !!

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Ruff Hunter
PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:26 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 15 Dec 2011
Posts: 156

Thats why black powder is so fun! Don't give up on hunting with a patched round ball though, it kills em just fine and was the go too projectile for for a good long time before the advent of the minnie ball and the modern bullet. But be carefull, I find that Hawken style muzzleloaders have a trait very similar to SXS's, you just cant have one! Maybe a .50 or a .54 cal Hawken could be in your future?

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16gaugeguy
PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 4:50 pm  Reply with quote
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Thanks to all for the comments and exchange of ideas. You are all dead on for sure that shooting a muzzleloader w/ black powder and patched balls is a lot of fun. I've been doing it since the mid-1970's after I saw the movie, "Jeremiah Johnson" w/ Robert Redford as Jeremiah and Will Geer as Bear Claw Lapp. I was hooked for sure pilgrim. Very Happy

No doubt this 45 T/C Hawken barrel is oversized. It's definitely a genuine factory barrel. The rifling is the standard .005" deep T/C type and 1:48 inch twist. But muzzle loader bore sizes need not be as exact as modern rifle barrels and do vary within a wider range of tolerances. This one is probably on the upper end of that range if not a bit over it. It's a perfect example of why each gun is a law unto itself. No problem. The .451" ball w/ the proper patch thickness and lube does the trick.

I also have a few ideas in my noggin regarding the Maxi Ball problem. I have a Lyman 45 Maxi Ball mold which casts .453" lead slugs which is just about the standard factory size. They just won't shoot--not big enough in diameter for this barrel.

I might be able to shim the mold w/ some thin strips of aluminum foil and cast some oversized lead slugs. Sizing them round somewhere between the standard .452" size and .460" should clean them up and make them fit the bore nice and snug. Could very well be the solution. Another idea is to patch some slugs w/ greased bonded writing paper after the fashion of paper patched rifle bullets. But that's a pair of ideas for the future. Fine and dandy w/ me.

That's why I love this past time. We can solve these riddles and do for ourselves just like the old timers did. There weren't any gun shops or Wal Marts up in the high lonesome where the beaver were so long ago. If they didn't pack it in or make it themselves, they did w/o until they learned how or died trying. In the mean time, there were no time clocks to punch or bosses to answer to. Their time was their own to spend, and their fate was in their own hands. That's true freedom.

Bear Claw Lapp, I hear you. I'm a pilgrim for sure and always will be I reckon. Very Happy
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16gaugeguy
PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 5:47 pm  Reply with quote
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Brewster11 wrote:
16gg,

Great report! I can't seem to wrap my head around how a patched ball fired through a rifled barrel can be so darned accurate...". Brewster


I agree it's a bit difficult for us modern centerfire rifle owners to get it, but it works quite well. Many years ago, I read the chapter on muzzleloading rifles in one of the earlier Lyman reloading manuals from the 1970's. According to the manual, the best commonly available patch material is relatively inexpensive cotton pillow ticking or denim (drill). The cloth weave is smooth on one side and coarse or pronounced on the other.

The pure lead ball is seated on the coarse side of the patch which is centered on the muzzle. When the ball and patch are rammed down the bore, the coarse weave bites into the soft lead ball around the circumference. When the black powder charge is ignited, the force of the explosion tends to obturate the ball (foreshorten it) which forces the soft lead out into the patch weave, and forces the patch into the lands and grooves of the rifling, thus sealing hot gases behind the projectile.

If the ball and patch combination is a good one, the imprint of the weave on the fired ball should be be fairly distinct where the rifling lands bear on the patch and less so where the grooves are (if the ball can be recovered in reasonably clean condition). There will usually be a scorched or blackened circle in the center of the patch, and a distinct pattern of the rifling radiating out from there. The fired patch should not be sooty or burned looking where it bears against the bore, nor should it ever be holed or burned through by the force of the blast. If it is, then the patch material is probably not rugged enough or may not be thick enough to properly seal the bore when the charge is fired.

If my ball and patch combo is a relatively good one, then my recovered fired patches usually show the pattern described above. The few balls I've recovered in relatively clean condition also show the imprint of the cloth weave where the patch bore on it.

Trial and error is the only way I know of to find out what works the best in a particular muzzle loading rifle. I've found that thicker cotton drill or pillow ticking patches are better for bores with deeper rifling and thinner ones are best for shallower rifling. As a rule of thumb, figure the proper uncompressed patch thickness to be about twice the depth of the rifling plus about .005" to start with. The compressed patch will end up at about twice the depth of the grooves or a tad more. The proper ball diameter should be about .005" less than the bore diameter to start with (if you can accurately determine the actual bore diameter). If the unpatched ball is placed sprue up in the muzzle and won't easily slide part way down the clean bore and fall out again when the rifle is inverted, then it is probably too big. One that rattles down the bore side to side is probably too small. That bit of info should put you in the ball park to begin with.

You can then go up or down in ball size and patch thickness a bit at a time in turn to find the sweet spot. Simply remember that a good snug patch and ball combo should not be very easy to start in the bore. You will need a good short starter and some moderate force to initially start the ball and patch down the bore. A slap of your palm or a tap of a mallet on the top of the short starter should be enough force to seat the ball in the muzzle and then partially down the bore. You should then be able to smoothly ram the patched ball the rest of the way down the bore w/ the ram rod or a wiping stick and firmly seat it on top of the powder charge in one smooth thrust w/o undo force.

If you can easily start the ball with just your thumb w/o much force, then the patch and/or the ball is probably not an optimum fit to get a reasonably good seal and decent accuracy. The patched ball will not offer enough resistance to the force of the fired powder charge and won't properly obturate enough to seal the gases behind it.

If too much force is required to smoothly ram the patched ball all the way after it is started down the bore, then the ball may be too big and/or the patch too thick. The ball and patch combo will not be optimum and will be too difficult to load under normal range and field conditions. You are also risking a cut or torn patch or worse, a stuck ball only partially rammed down the bore and not seated firmly on the powder. Firing the load in this condition is plain dangerous. The risk is a burst barrel and a ruined gun or a severe injury. The only solution is to have the breech removed and the stuck ball driven back out the muzzle. Better to avoid this problem entirely by starting w/ a bll and patch combo which is a bit too easy to start and go bigger in ball and patch thickness in small increments until the groups tighten up to optimum.

I've found it best to start w/ a powder charge about in the middle of the acceptable range for the rifle as directed by the manufacturer. That is where the force of the force of the charge will obturate a properly fitted and seated patched ball. You can then go lighter in increments of 5 or 10 grains of powder to find a good target load or heavier up to the recommended max charge to find a good hunting load.

Perhaps it's easier to understand if we think of a patch as a homespun sabot. Very Happy Works for me. Might for you. Wink
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Dave in Maine
PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2015 7:26 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 12 Sep 2010
Posts: 1973
Location: Maine

Brewster11 wrote:
16gg,

Great report! I can't seem to wrap my head around how a patched ball fired through a rifled barrel can be so darned accurate, but hey, it wasn't that long ago that the whole British Empire couldn't figure it out either, about how some guys with Kentucky rifles could pick off Redcoats at 250 yards when their own Brown Bess muskets "may as well fire at the moon" at that range.

Well done,

Brewster


Yup.
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