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Montana16
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 5:24 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 14 Oct 2011
Posts: 80
Location: Eastern Washington

Need some help from those knowledgeable on the board about stock refinishing. For background, I had my Fox restocked a few years ago with a nice piece of wood. Had an oil finish when I received it. This past year, I bought some tru-oil, and after a very gentle once over with 0000 steel wool (avoiding checkering) I applied it by hand, trying to avoid over application. Let it dry and it dried unevenly with visible runs. Did something wrong and need to start over. What should I do to get it looking fine again?

1. Removal of current coat
2. Prep for finish (iron for small dents?, sanding, etc?)
3. Application (Tru-oil vs other, dilute with mineral spirits, etc...)
4. Number of coats and time between coats?

Thanks in advance.

Stefen
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Builder
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 7:17 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 21 Mar 2013
Posts: 76
Location: New Jersey

When applying an oil finish it takes only a few drops, 2 maybe 3 per coat on a butt stock. You can probably go to six drops if you like. Rub it in with your fingers and let it dry for a day before coating it again. With what you are describing, I would guess three coats would do it. You can do more to get a deeper look. Some people do twenty or thirty coats and that takes a month. Lightly steel wool with very little pressure to smooth when you see the coats starting to look a bit rough. I use 600 grit wet or dry paper with tru oil as the lubricant for the final coat. I hope this helps and yes, you need to remove the runs.

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Cheesy
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 7:18 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Oct 2015
Posts: 77
Location: SWMO

When doing tru oil (or any oil finish) you want to rub it thoroughly in. If you have more than will be absorbed, wipe it off and let that coat dry. You should never have enough to make a run. Repeat a dozen times (plus or minus)

You might be able to “dissolve” the run with some more tru oil rubbed over it.
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stubshaft
PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 10:04 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Feb 2013
Posts: 76
Location: Southernmost State of the Union

Prep for finish = steam dents out, sand AND whisker until no further grain is raised.

The primary issue with Tru-oil is to make sure it is dry BEFORE putting another coat on. If the underlying coats are not fully dry the stock may nont fully cure.

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Brewster11
PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2019 7:59 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 08 Feb 2009
Posts: 666
Location: Western WA

Quote:
Prep for finish = steam dents out, sand AND whisker until no further grain is raised.


One final prep step which has worked out quite nicely is to "burnish" the wood with an oak dowel after whiskering. Rub the wood firmly along the grain with the dowel, which provides an extremely smooth surface that still absorbs the oil.

I use the palm of the hand to rub in the oil, as it warms the oil and assists penetration.

Tung oil is superior to linseed, as some believe the latter to be too heavy and dark and softens the wood. Tung oil provides a luminous golden glow to the wood that accents the grain instead of concealing it like linseed. Tung oil requires more coats than linseed and benefits from a light refreshing every few seasons.

But I have never been able to replicate the classic Purdey finish with its brilliant red and amber highlights over a deep rich marbled base. Maybe someone else here knows the secret.

B.
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Nasty-G
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 2:33 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 10 Apr 2013
Posts: 97

I recently did a Ithaca 37 using Gunsavr spray. Couldn't be happier. Have done the rubbed oil route & lkie this better on a hunting gu

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WyoChukar
PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2019 4:12 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Jul 2015
Posts: 1527
Location: Hudson,Wy

I like a mixture of tung oil and polyurethane. About 50-50, but that can vary without being critical. It works in like oil but is more resistant to moisture. I first soak the end grain well to keep water out at the butt end and help resist gun oil leeching into the wood at the action.

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slowpokebill
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 8:49 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 07 Aug 2013
Posts: 159
Location: Utah

I like Truoil as a finish. When working with it I thin it 50/50 with turpentine. I've tried mineral spirts as a thinner but it seems that turpentine seems to work better for me.

I mask checkering and hope to keep the finish from gumming it up.

I wet sand a section with with the Truoil and then rub it in with the ball of my hand. I rub it in util it gets hot. Then I move on to the next section, wet sand and rub it in. I let the stock dry for 24 or more hours and then it is wet sand with a finer grit and rub it in. The grit of the sand paper I start with depend on the roughness of the wood when I start. I wet sand until I get to 1000 grit.

I never use steel wool. I've tried but for me it just gums up, sheds and makes a mess.

By the time I get to that 1000 grit hopefully the pores are filled. After that I will rub another coat of thinned Turmoil in with the ball of my palm again until the oil and my gets hot. At that point after drying the stock may be a bit glossy. I prefer a nice satin finish. I let the stock sit a month or more before the final polish to a soft satin finish.

At the point one out be very careful and not too aggressive. I've used the Stock Sheen but find it a bit aggressive. I prefer FFFF Rotten Stone for final polish. I mix a slurry with mineral oil and the rotten stone. I will rub and polish with a blue paper shop towel. Again, be careful here. It is easy to cut through the finish and then it is another coat and month wait.

Then it is checkering. I thin the Truoil even thinner 3 to 1 or thinner. I brush a few very light coats on and call it quits.

One more hint. Don't peel the foil of the bottle of TruOil. Just poke a small hole in the foil. If you do that it won't dry out and the bottle will last for years and many stocks.
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16gaDavis
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:47 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 24 Jun 2013
Posts: 1464
Location: canandaigua - western n.y. (formerly deerhunter)

some of the guys here also just turn the bottle upside down so if any hardening occurs , it will be on the bottom .

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WyoChukar
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:54 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 16 Jul 2015
Posts: 1527
Location: Hudson,Wy

Good way to check for a leaky cap too! Wink

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