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< 16ga. General Discussion ~ Buying a used gun . . |
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Posted:
Sun May 22, 2005 8:23 pm
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Member
Joined: 15 Mar 2005
Posts: 358
Location: Houston
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I'm thinking of buying a 1950's used gun, and have never bought one that old. Have never bought a used gun from a non-relative, come to think of it. This one's from a dealer.
Will I need to have it checked out by a gunsmith? I saw another thread once that talked about ringing the barrel witha screwdriver and testing it with dye. Is that the usual? If so, can any gunsmith do it? What should I expect to pay? |
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Posted:
Mon May 23, 2005 3:10 am
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Joined: 22 Mar 2005
Posts: 14
Location: Northeast Ohio
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A fifty year old shotgun may have seen a lot of abuse and work in itself life, be wore out, reworked and refinished. Or it may be as pristine as the day it was bought. Usually somewhere inbetween.
If you hang the barrel by the barrel lug in your finger and rap it with a knuckle on your other hand, it should ring true if the barrels are intact, no rust or rib separation. Take a good look down the bores for bulges, scratches or rust. You should have the bores and constrictions measured to be sure the chokes are what you think they are. Measure the chambers. Open the receiver to ensure it isnt full of rust. If it is an expensive firearm and you are unsure of yourself, it is worth the money to ship it to be appraised and evaluated. I would be reluctant to accept the word of a seller unless you know him personally. And then keep one eye wide open!! Good luck.
What type of gun is it? |
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Posted:
Mon May 23, 2005 5:21 am
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Member
Joined: 15 Mar 2005
Posts: 358
Location: Houston
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It's an Ithaca 37 in 16 ga. |
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Posted:
Mon May 23, 2005 10:25 am
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Member
Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 6535
Location: massachusetts
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662, the best indicator of interior and mechanical condition is the exterior. If the gun has been well cared for, it will show. If there is excessive wear, rust, buggered screw heads, pits, big dings, or barrel defects, your eyes will pick it up. Blue wear varies from gun to gun and is not always the best indicator of overall condition. If the gun has been refinished, It will also show up as faded and thin lettering, rounded corners, different color patches or different appearance among the various metal parts or patchy coloring on the bigger parts. Look for signs of cold bluing on major areas.
Eye the barrel interior. If it is dusty, wipe it with a lightly oiled patch and follow with several more dry cleaning patchs. A shiny bore is a good sign. a pitted, rough one is not. Look inside the action. If it is clean, thats good. If it is full of old powder, dust, coagulated or varnished oil, that is neglect. You common sense will come into play once you get over the gimmees we all sometimes get over a used gun, especially a bargain priced one. Excersise caution and ignore the professed worth by the seller. Check the selling prices of similar pieces. Above all, sleep on it if you are not 100% sure. |
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Posted:
Thu May 26, 2005 1:24 pm
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Member
Joined: 24 Aug 2004
Posts: 225
Location: San Rafael, CA
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I have bought five used guns and no new guns in the last 10 years; a 1923 Parker VHE, a 1925 Parker Trojan, an 1898 Parker GH , a 1927 Parker Trojan and a 1922 L.C.Smith Field. My total gunsmithing expense for those guns has been under $200 total and I shoot at least 3000 rounds a year through the Elsie on trap and turkeys.Good guns of their very nature are overbuilt and an Ithaca 37 is a very good gun. If it looks good overall buy it and shoot it with confidence. |
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Posted:
Fri May 27, 2005 9:26 pm
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Joined: 19 Feb 2005
Posts: 30
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BUY IT!!, You will find that its' lighter than current production.
Also, ithaca has a reblue special on Now, go to www.ithaca.com, menu to Service /Parts.
Or you contact them for overhauling completely, I have one that is scheduled to go in for the reblue and I just found an IC barrel that is six years earlier than my 1954. I'm going to open the choke to Skeet and have a DANDY Dove,Grouse & Woodcock arm. |
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