I've always really liked 16 gauge, and have owned, reloaded, and shot for them for years. I've had the Savage SXS's, a Savage model B, and a Stevens 506. I never owned, but always liked my friends Ithaca 37 featherlight. I've never been a huge fan of semi-autos. I've always preferred a pump or SXS. Until recently, the only semi-auto shotgun I own was the Ithaca Mag-10 that I love.
For some reason while going through a gun shop, a Remington 11-48 caught my eye. I knew nothing of them, but something about it looked right. I picked it up and was amazed to find how light it was, and it was a 16 gauge! It had a chipped stock, but otherwise looked great, and was priced to sell. So I bought it. The first thing I did was take it apart, and clean it well. I took it to the range with Federal 1oz loads and some 7/8 oz handloads. It cycled both without a hiccup.
This one has a 28" barrel with modified choke. I also bought a 26" improved cylinder barrel that I have not tried yet. I also bought a nice stock. I realize a new Remington stock will fit, but may not be to the same shape or proportion. I found one from another 16 gauge with no damage. I had bought a steel stock spacer "bearing plate", but found it will not fit with either stock. I see it mentioned online that you need that spacer to keep the stock from chipping. Is this only for new Remington stocks like for an 870?
The other thing I found was that new springs were available, so I bought those too. Although I had no problems with it, I figured new springs wont hurt. The action spring is fine. The recoil spring, however, fit a little tight in the wiper ring. Some call this the friction ring, but it does not appear to do that function. It is just a spacer between the spring and actual friction piece. It also has a bit of felt inside, presumably to keep a consistent coat of oil on the magazine tube. So the recoil spring fits freely on the magazine tube, but being so tight in the ring, it squeezed own, and no longer moved freely. What I did was grind the outside of the spring, just for the last three coils, to make it fit. I also replaced the friction piece with a good used one. Do any new ones exist?
While my gun cycled just fine before, now with new, well fitting parts, I can slide the barrel all the way to the rear and lock the bolt if I want. I could have before, but it was a lot tougher. With 28" barrel my gun weighs about 6 pounds 12 ounces by bathroom scale. I seem to have lost my postal scale. I love simple machines like this. No gas, no complexity. Just a couple moving parts and recoil.
I really like this gun, it is definitely underrated. Now I just need to find what seems to be a super rare 16 gauge rifled slug special barrel, if such a thing exists. Or maybe a bad barrel, and make my own slug barrel. Is there any trouble interchanging barrels on these? Assuming the bolt notch isn't worn out, were these made consistently, or were they intended to be fit to the gun?
Joined: 24 Jun 2013
Location: canandaigua - western n.y. (formerly deerhunter)
welcome to the 16ga - 11-48 crowd . I came on late myself about 10yrs ago . Needed a 16 with 3shot capable . 26'' IC came along and .... NICE !! I did mine in duracoat - rust free now(known as the PINK PANTHER) . The remmie handles any length 16 reg case worry free . The guns are made to great internal dimensions - mine can stick with steel rimmed cases feeding from the mag tube . Rem shells are most worry free . Stocks from new Rems will fit but need extra spacers - even more than the metal spacer . The original stocks have extra inletted wood at the receiver that 1100 stocks don't .... My 16 handles down ti 5/8 NICELY . So wish 7/8 was more of a thing 50 yrs ago !! My 28ga needed to have some mods done to it . Couldn't cycle it with the action spring it had with 300 win mags . shortened the spring in small increments till it worked . Pvc tube cut into small pieces works nicely to tighten the action back up if I feel the need . SWEET guns !
Well then, maybe I'll have to try some 3/4 oz loads. I'm seeing the tiniest amount of gap around the back of the receiver and the stock, indicating the stock is bottomed out on the inside of the receiver. I feel a lot better about that. After talking to an old Remington shooter, he said a major cause of cracked stocks like mine is a loose stock. Apparently the play allows a little slapping which can chip as mine did. I put the new stock on, which looks great, and made sure it was nice and snug. I do not have go/no-go gauges, but I cannot detect any major headspace just by pushing on the bolt with a rod. It seems to lock up nice and tight on an empty case. I tried this with both the 28" and 26" barrel. I'll have to see if the gunsmith happens to have some gauges just to make sure.
I've tried Remington, Federal, and Fiocchi hulls so far, no problems. All are steel head. For the most part I shoot Federal 1oz, and reload those hulls. As far as I'm aware, brass head shotgun hulls are a thing of the past now. Maybe the 12 gauge Remington premier? I'm pretty sure AA's, and gun clubs are steel. I know gold medal's are steel now. It's sad for sure.
I didn't want to say, but I paid $250 out the door for mine, and it is a 1951.
Can you post a pic of that felt and where it is located. I too just picked one up and the felt is missing.
I did see it mentioned elsewhere.
I'll likely do it late tonight or tomorrow. Mine only has four parts to the system. The action spring, which returns the bolt forward is one. More importantly the recoil spring, ring assembly, and friction piece. I do not have the part that is linked by skeetx, at least as far as I know.
Looking through the parts diagram, the action spring is #1, the recoil spring and ring assembly come as a set #51, and the friction piece is #35. I do not see a "friction ring insert" on the diagram.
As best as I can tell, the springs obviously help, but the only thing slowing the recoil is the friction piece, which fits inside a tapered ring mounted to the barrel. I guess the idea is that the faster it recoils, the more that ring is pinched down.
Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Location: Barkhamsted, CT
Maybe someone added their own felt to yours?
The link skeettx gave says unavailable.
Seems like a consumable part which no one is ever going to make again.
Mine ran OK once I got some oil on the mag. tube. It wouldn't eject any shells either until I replaced the extractor. 1st full round of skeet, two shells were left in the barrel. Both reloads. I may polish the chambers and ever so slightly open up the extractor channel in the barrel extension. I managed a 24 with that mod barrel though.
Boy was I surprised.
No, I'm sure the felt is factory original. Hopefully the pictures below will help. I'm not making the claim that mine isn't missing anything, but according to the parts diagrams I see, it's all there. Just a spring, spacer ring, and friction piece.
Here is the whole system put together. The recoil spring, then the ring assembly (black, and says up for all loads), then the friction piece in the barrel.
Next we take a closeup of the inside of the ring assembly. You can see the felt, or whatever the material is. I see nowhere a friction ring, or any other part would go. As far as I know, this part serves only as a spacer between the spring and friction piece, as well as wiping the magazine tube with the felt.
Finally we have the end of the recoil spring. If you look real close, you can see I only ground on the last three coils. I then touched them up with cold blue. I ground such that it just barely slides inside the ring assembly. I do not think having it bind here would do you any favors, and may be the cause of some reliability problems some report with light loads.
I've seen the claim made that you can flip the spring and ring assembly around for a "light load setting". I do not think this is the case. While it may work, it is likely just a bandaid for another problem. After reading through the old 11-48 manual, and the literal writing right on the ring assembly, there is no adjustment. The ring goes up, against the friction piece. The system is self adjusting, by way of a tapered cone the friction piece fits inside of.
Here it is, dressed in the new stuff. 26" IC barrel, and new, great condition stock. Unfortunately the stock was cut down slightly to accommodate a recoil pad. Being 6'5", I like my LOP. Not a big deal, as I'll install a 1 3/8" thick Kickeez magnum pad, which will be about 1/8" longer than the original stock and plastic butt. I also have spacers if need be.
I think a side by side with the greatest goose gun of all time is in order. The mag 10.
I have a Sportsman 48, basically the same gun as the 11-48, and the stock is also chipped where it joins the receiver. I bought it like that, and was told by the gunsmith I bought it from it was because the gun was fired with the stock loose (it was loose when he took it in on trade). Where did you get the new stock? And can you post a photo of the stock spacer you are talking about that keeps it from chipping?
I had the full choke in mine opened up to Skeet II so I could shoot steel out of it. Great little duck gun, but all I could find for it were Federal #2 steel. From what I've seen, that hasn't changed.
The mag tube ring in mine also has a felt wiper in it. I had opened up the spring a little by counter twisting it until slid smoothly over the magazine tube. Never had a problem cycling it with anything I put through it, although the Federals would blow the crimps off when hunting in very cold temps.
I'll see if I can post a photo of mine with the stock chip.
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