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Joined: 19 Jun 2004 Posts: 1480 Location: Mpls, MN.

Gunbroker is a different deal then a regular auction. You have three days to figure out if the gun will work for you, and you can ship it back in that time if it doesn’t.
The big auction houses won’t do that.

I have bought two guns from private sellers on Gunbroker, both guns were bought with known issues, for slim money, and, still, had three day return privileges.

I kept them both.

Best,
Ted

Bill K, you've received some great advice from Ted and Bill Wolfe. I have two R10 guns, a 16 and a 20. The 16 was off gunbroker and the gun had issues which the seller didn't want to hear about and refused to take it back. Be careful with sellers who don't offer returns for any reason. Fortunately through the good graces of a friend, I was directed to a source of repairs (bad mainspring) who happened to have an original spring and fitted it for a very reasonable sum and did the work promptly. It's an older model from the 1920s and the sliding breach was reblued, but no issues with it. Barrels are in good order and it hasn't met a shell it won't cycle unlike some old and newer pumps which will gag on the Herter's shells. The gun is chambered for 2.5, but I shoot the Herter's shells without a second thought. I would have been SOL but for the help from above. The R10 20 was bought from the same friend about 3 years ago and it was made in the 1960s and is one heckuva quail and WC gun. I had the chokes opened. It is in pristine condition. Darne's factory literature suggests using the lever as a safety device most likely in recognition of the actual safety being somewhat awkward in use for those weaned on top tang safeties. If the lever is raised to the vertical position with the actual safety "off", a quick closing of the lever puts the gun on "fire". There is a wealth of original documentation on the second listed forum on doubegunshop that I uploaded a few years ago. One brochure in English discusses the lever's use as a safety. Gil
https://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=454604#Post454604

Joined: 13 Apr 2017 Posts: 150

Are the Francisque Darnes the same design and strength as real Darnes? There is a couple of F Darnes for sale on Gunbroker. Any other problems with them? Thanks in advance.

Joined: 13 Apr 2017 Posts: 150

Are the Francisque Darnes the same design and strength as real Darnes? There is a couple of F Darnes for sale on Gunbroker. Any other problems with them? Thanks in advance.

Joined: 19 Jun 2004 Posts: 1480 Location: Mpls, MN.

For the very most part, early F. Darne guns are Regis Darne 1894 patent R model guns, sold in the white, and proofed, to gunmakers after the appearance of the improved 1909 Darne R models. Francisque Darne was Regis Darne’s eldest son, and founded his company in 1910. While he had patents issued in his name for improvements to various gun designs, most of what he sold appears to have been sliding breech guns. Francisque Darne died in 1917, and the very great majority of guns we see with that name on them were produced by someone else who owned the company. The company soldiered on, with various owners, until 1955.
The best are the earliest. If you see the mark “Jallos e Cie”, on the flats, that was an early owner that seemed to produce excellent guns. There were others. The top of the line F. Darne guns usually had Jacob Holzer steel barrels, I have never seen a bad gun with that marking on the flats. But, those are top of the line guns, and, rare.
Unfortunately, one can’t just assume with these guns.

Best,
Ted

Joined: 13 Apr 2017 Posts: 150

There is a Darne R12. 16 gauge for sale on Gunbroker, #804235716. My question, is it a genuine Darne? I know there are a lot of similar action shotguns listed as Darnes. Any one see any problems with this one? Thanks in advance.

Joined: 19 Jun 2004 Posts: 1480 Location: Mpls, MN.

The only R12 in 16 gauge I saw was this one:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/884235716

It is a Darne, not sure what is going on with the stock finish, and it looks like the horn tip has shrunk a bit. The swivel posts for the sling appear to be missing the swivels. Nice configuration, perfect gauge.

Best,
Ted

Member Joined: 24 Dec 2005 Posts: 134 Location: Idaho

I have a R10 Darne, a F.Darne and a Charlin. Here is my two cents. The R10 has very hard triggers pulls. 6 to 7 pounds. Also it did not have enough cast. One very fine gunsmilth would not touch to triggers. The other one worked some and not much change. The cast was taken care of with the belt sander. This not bragging because in general I am not a good shot. especially on Huns and Chukars. But three years ago I killed eight Huns and two rosters with 14 shots. I take it as the best shooting in my life. Three doubles on Huns. The F Darne had the same hard pulls but evidently the gunsmith that would not touch the R10 reduced easily and quickly the trigger pulls I shoot the Charlin some but it has poor balance. Sorry for the long rant. Larry

Member Joined: 24 Dec 2005 Posts: 134 Location: Idaho

I have a R10 Darne, a F.Darne and a Charlin. Here is my two cents. The R10 has very hard triggers pulls. 6 to 7 pounds. Also it did not have enough cast. One very fine gunsmilth would not touch to triggers. The other one worked some and not much change. The cast was taken care of with the belt sander. This not bragging because in general I am not a good shot. especially on Huns and Chukars. But three years ago I killed eight Huns and two rosters with 14 shots. I take it as the best shooting in my life. Three doubles on Huns. The F Darne had the same hard pulls but evidently the gunsmith that would not touch the R10 reduced easily and quickly the trigger pulls I shoot the Charlin some but it has poor balance. Sorry for the long rant. Larry

Joined: 19 Jun 2004 Posts: 1480 Location: Mpls, MN.

R Darne trigger pulls are tough to get right. I work on mine, but, it is fiddly, takes time to reassemble and check, and if you get too enthusiastic, you can go too far. Neither JJ nor Geoffrey will do them anymore, and I think you can add Kirk to that list, also.

My V guns always had better triggers, but, I have heard from guys that have heavy pulls in them, as well. Since I haven’t had a bad one (yet) I have no time in working V triggers down.

Always try before you buy. You can dry fire a Darne at will if the action is closed and the barrels are on the gun.

Best,
Ted

Member Joined: 31 Oct 2005 Posts: 446 Location: Wisconsin

Deleted

Member Joined: 31 Oct 2005 Posts: 446 Location: Wisconsin

I have owned 4 Darne R models, a 12 R10, 20R10 and 12R15.
Fabulous upland doubles but all traded away after ordering a Bruchet/Darne R11 from Ted in 16 ga which I still retain with a unique double trigger.
As far as I know, one cannot order a new Darne of any kind as Bruchet has closed shop.
My first 12 R10 was a Stoeger import and a great Darne for the price.
My advise would be to have Ted inspect any contemplative purchase!
I think Gournet may still work on them.
Learn the importer history and purchase the newest you can find, otherwise you could end up with a boat anchor.
-Richard
BTW, Hello Ted!

This has proved to be an informative forum -

All things considered, unless you know what you are dealing with - or have access to someone who does, Darne shotguns are best to be avoided.

He he he
What Ted has been saying for years Smile

Do NOT marry a Darne and then try to change her, you will only cause
yourself pain and expense Shocked

Mike

Joined: 19 Jun 2004 Posts: 1480 Location: Mpls, MN.

Good to see you Richard!

Unfortunately, a Darne requires some research, and soul searching that is tough to pull off. Guys pick one up, like what they feel, buy in, and decide they hate them. Same thing in reverse, as well. Experience is the teacher, but, most guys will only see one or two in a lifetime.

A hard school to graduate from.

Geoffrey, JJ, Dewey or Kirk would be examples of good gunsmiths who could inspect a prospective purchase for you. Beyond that, it is on you to figure out if you can make the gun work for you.

Rest assured, there are guys who love ‘em, and have figured out exactly how to make them work.

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Best,
Ted