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Emtymag
PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2021 5:57 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 05 Oct 2017
Posts: 284
Location: Central MN

[URL=https://www.jpgbox.com/page/67151_600x400/] [/URL]

[URL=https://www.jpgbox.com/page/67152_600x400/] [/URL]

Came across a few boxes of these today so I grabbed one for my 16ga ammo display.

1970’s?

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MSM2019
PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2021 7:14 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 04 Mar 2019
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Location: Central ND

Gonna guess, and it is a guess 1985 - 6 - 7 something like that.

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AmericanMeet
PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2021 7:35 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 26 Apr 2010
Posts: 3172
Location: NCWa

The format was between the yellow with large Red X and the Siler with small red X; Olin could give the month/year if contacted with the lot number, but that style was from mid 80s to mid 90s.
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nj gsp
PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2021 7:56 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Aug 2007
Posts: 437
Location: WI

Mid 80’s for sure, I have a few empty boxes I saved from my teen years.
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Hammer bill
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2021 8:31 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Feb 2015
Posts: 815

If their is more you better buy the rest of them.
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Emtymag
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2021 9:54 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 05 Oct 2017
Posts: 284
Location: Central MN

Hammer bill wrote:
If their is more you better buy the rest of them.


They had 2 more boxes the other day.

Not sure what I would use #2 lead for, maybe I could find a use.

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AmericanMeet
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2021 1:17 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 26 Apr 2010
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Location: NCWa

Those are going to be the famed CF hulls, so even if you wanted to pull the #2 shot and replace with something else, the hulls would be worth the purchase price.
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Emtymag
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2021 2:53 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 05 Oct 2017
Posts: 284
Location: Central MN

AmericanMeet wrote:
Those are going to be the famed CF hulls, so even if you wanted to pull the #2 shot and replace with something else, the hulls would be worth the purchase price.


Even at over $20 per box?

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AmericanMeet
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2021 10:37 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 26 Apr 2010
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Even at over $20 per box?[/quote]


I'd pay $20+ per box- figuring the parts (25 CF hulls, 25 primers, 25 wads, about 2 oz of powder and 2+ pounds of shot.
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browningsweet161977
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2021 11:11 pm  Reply with quote
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I never walk past any box of cf ammo under $30 I have two flats of these in the back of my closet for a rainy day. I've shot a couple close range coyotes with these #2 shot and they do the job..

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Emtymag
PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2021 4:40 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 05 Oct 2017
Posts: 284
Location: Central MN

I bought the last 2 boxes.

Anyway to unload these other than firing them?

I don’t have much use for #2 lead.

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nj gsp
PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2021 7:04 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 09 Aug 2007
Posts: 437
Location: WI

Emtymag wrote:
I bought the last 2 boxes.

Anyway to unload these other than firing them?

I don’t have much use for #2 lead.


Fill some milk jugs with water and have a blast (literally)!
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MaximumSmoke
PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2021 7:38 pm  Reply with quote
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Emtymag -- I use a tool with basically a wood-screw type of thread on the tip to start the "uncrimping" process, i.e. a tool with a pointed, tapered, coarse thread. You could solder or weld a 3/16" (#10) sheet metal screw to an old cut off screwdriver. Some folks have used a wood screw eye bolt or hook of small shank size. In a pinch, use a good #10 wood screw. Screw any of these threaded devices into the center of the pie crimp. This is about the only civil way to deal with the "swirl welded" closure on old compression-formed Winchester-Western shells, or even on some of the old inverted style crimps on the original Remington SP hulls -- works on any pie crimp, but it's really the only good way to break into the swirl-welded/sealed crimps.

Anyway, screw that thing in about 3/8" and then pull it our gently, unlocking the "pie". You might have to squeeze the edges of the hull end to encourage opening. That's hard to do on compression formed hulls, though, but don't worry about that. The idea is to pick up the crimp center a little bit and make a hole so you can use the next tool -- a regular pointed awl or ice pick -- the best kind has about a 1/8" to 3/16" shank diameter, and a sharp but short point. You can grind one yourself from a rod or an old screwdriver if you need to. Plunge that tool through the now raised center of the crimp and into the shot area, probably no more than 3/8 or even a half inch, and gently lift one of the "pie" folds, and then another, and another and work your way around till the crimp loosens and "cones" upward. As soon as the opening is large enough, dump out the shot. If you are going to replace the shot with smaller stuff you really do not have to open/unfold the crimp fully, but remember, a small opening makes it harder to get the replacement shot in.

I recommend weighting the shot you got out of the shell and then replacing it with what you want -- lead shot for lead shot, though -- no new-fangled shot alloy substitutions without at least doing some good thinking. Then put the re-filled shell back in the old MEC and re-crimp -- you did use one of the loaded shells to adjust your crimp stations perfectly, right? If not, do so, it can save you a bit of trouble. I've done this quite a bit, and can make the shells look like factory new -- you can too. There is no need to unload the hull completely -- leave the wads, powder and primer alone and just replace the shot with the size you want in the same weight as before and shoot it as the load originally installed. This actually takes more time to explain than to actually do. It really is worth it for however many boxes you've got. It doesn't take long to do a box, but like anything, you've gotta wanna. I guess I really hate throwing anything "fixable" away. Think of the future you'll have with those compression formed W-W hulls -- woo-hoo!

The above exercise is not nearly as extreme as it could be. e.g. Back in the mid '60's as a young teenager, I once had a case -- a real case with 20 boxes -- 500 rounds -- of 2.5" 20 gauge Winchester Rangers (with the pointing setter on the box!) that my dad had acquired in Mississippi that had primers that simply would not go off -- probably stored in humid circumstances, since the early '40's. They looked great, though. That was the first time I used that same screw tool I mentioned above. I still have it. I completely disassembled those 500 shells to replace the primers. All other components went back in the shells when I reloaded them (on an old MEC 400 SuperSpeeder). They had originally been roll crimped, so Dad bought me a Lyman 20 gauge roll crimper. I still have it. The shells came out looking like new, the powder still worked and they shot just fine. I still, however, kick myself for throwing most of the boxes away . . . damn, that turned out to eventually be far and away the most valuable part! Who'd have known then how the sporting collectible market would go, but I digress.

Anyway, where there's a will, there's a way, and that was the "way" ginned up by a North Dakota farm kid with time on his hands and the unwillingness to throw away a good looking shell.

Cheers!
Tony
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pumpgun
PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2021 7:52 am  Reply with quote
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I wouldn't hesitate to use them on wild phez - with mod to full choke
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Jim Atlas
PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2021 12:59 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 25 Mar 2013
Posts: 36
Location: Southern Michigan

I use a pear of needle nose pliers and gently squeeze the hull below the crimp to force the shot up and start pushing the crimp open. Then I grab a fold and pull it open. Pretty easy and doesn't smash the hull.
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