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< 16ga. General Discussion ~ Classic Gun Clean Up |
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Posted:
Sun May 20, 2007 8:53 am
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Member
Joined: 28 Dec 2005
Posts: 2016
Location: Glendale, AZ
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This topic has been covered before, but some new products/techniques were recently discussed on DoubleGunBBS, so I thought I'd put everything together in one thread. It might be worth saving as an 'Announcement'
For stock clean up, use Murphy's Oil Soap if there is LOTS of grime and old flaking varnish. Scrub using a washcloth over and over until the cloth no longer picks up the black stuff. Use a toothbrush to scrub out the checkering. Murphy's Oil Soap will remove varnish, so use with caution. Mylands Friction Polish (also available from The Wooden Post) can then be used to restore the finish.
If you want to clean, but not remove any of the old finish, use Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen & Conditioner or Formby's Buildup Remover. Apply with a washcloth until the washcloth no longer picks up the gunk. Then use Formby's Lemon Oil Treatment or Old English Lemon Oil to put some life back in the wood. Dr. Drew uses Old English Lemon Oil about every 6 months in the desert because of the low humidity. Let the Old English lemon Oil dry for a day and then use Johnson's Paste Wax, Trewax or Renaissance Wax also available from Woodcraft or PicreatorEnterprises Ltd.. It's amazing the color and contrast that will come out after a serious cleaning!
http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/RenWax.html
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3235
http://www.restorationproduct.com/
If the barrels have not been cold blued, you can safely remove most of the corrosion on the brls using WD-40 and OOOO steel or bronze wool, or off the barrels and receiver where the case colors are already worn off using a copper penny or a 3M Scotch Brite pad http://www.3m.com/us/home_leisure/scotchbrite/products/scrubber.html
with Kroil http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=137203 or http://www.kanolabs.com/
or Kleen Bore's Formula 3 Gun Conditioner-it's sold for about $3 in 2 oz. bottles. Flitz or Mothers' Billet Metal Polish will also clean up the metal but WILL remove case colors.
Navel Jelly will remove rust AND BLUE http://www.tools-hills.com/HENKEL-CORPORATION/8OZ-Duro-Navel-Jelly-B000C014ZI.htm as will Evapo-Rust http://www.evaporust.com/
Great care must be taken cleaning the case colors, I use Flitz Gun Wax that both cleans (and brightens) and protects http://www.flitz.com/
After clean up, protect the colors with Renaissance Wax http://www.restorationproduct.com/
To clean corrosion from the engraving, get some solid copper wire, like that used for household wiring [Romex] of 14~18 gauge. Strip the insulation off of one strand or just use the ground wire, cut it at a long angle with a pair of diagonal cutters. Use the fresh cut end as your 'pick' or tool along with some Kleen Bore Formula 3 to remove the rust. If it gets worn too smooth or rounded, just nip a small increment from its end to 'resharpen'. The Formula 3 will penetrate wonderfully and loosen the rust as well as prevent future rusting and the copper 'tool' will not scratch a thing nor harm the engraving. It will be tedious work, but you should only need do it once. Do not be afraid to bear down or be agressive with the wire's end, you cannot hurt anything, metal wise. You could put a gouge in the wood though if you slip so pay attention. Use a piece of wire long enough to be comfortable held in your hand and bend the last 1/2 " 90 degrees or down for the working end if it makes it easier to use.
For the best thing to re-oil or wipe down engraved surfaces, get a piece of real lamb's wool leather that has been clipped close. There is simply nothing more effective to insure you get a coat of oil on and into the engraving. A small piece will last a lifetime. |
Last edited by revdocdrew on Fri Feb 22, 2008 6:46 am; edited 8 times in total _________________ Drew Hause
http://sites.google.com/a/damascusknowledge.com/www/home |
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Posted:
Sun May 20, 2007 9:34 am
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Member
Joined: 27 Aug 2006
Posts: 596
Location: Massachusetts
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Posted:
Sun May 20, 2007 4:24 pm
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Member
Joined: 06 Aug 2004
Posts: 2172
Location: Kansas High Plains
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Hey Doug, how 'bout a sticky for this? Good stuff! |
_________________ I feel a warm spot in my heart when I meet a man whiling away an afternoon...and stopping to chat with him, hear the sleek lines of his double gun whisper "Sixteen." - Gene Hill, Shotgunner's Notebook |
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Posted:
Mon May 21, 2007 8:56 am
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Joined: 16 May 2007
Posts: 11
Location: Alexandria MN
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I've heard others mention to use a laquer to protect case colors. Does anyone know of a product designed to shield the Casecolors from handling wear? |
_________________ Mark M Pharm.D. |
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Posted:
Mon May 21, 2007 9:11 am
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Member
Joined: 28 Dec 2005
Posts: 2016
Location: Glendale, AZ
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Posted:
Mon May 21, 2007 10:17 am
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Member
Joined: 14 Jan 2006
Posts: 1007
Location: Lancaster county, Pa
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Rev how do you use the copper penny? |
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Posted:
Mon May 21, 2007 10:40 am
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Member
Joined: 28 Dec 2005
Posts: 2016
Location: Glendale, AZ
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pudelguy: I use a bench grinder to flatten one edge, then just rub the area of corrosion with plenty of Formula 3. There may be some pitting underneath, but remarkably, the blue sometimes survives. And I use an OLD penny that is all copper |
_________________ Drew Hause
http://sites.google.com/a/damascusknowledge.com/www/home |
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Posted:
Mon May 21, 2007 12:25 pm
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Joined: 08 Mar 2007
Posts: 134
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Great suggestions gents....
I have an older Merkel with scroll engraving, and in many areas especially close to the wood, the receiver is turning a shade of yellow........I am assuming it is oil turned to varnish.
1. what is the best way to remove the yellow color off the metal without damage to the wood?
2. If the metal (coin finish) is a bit dull, how would you bring it back to life.?
thank you |
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Posted:
Mon May 21, 2007 1:33 pm
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Member
Joined: 28 Dec 2005
Posts: 2016
Location: Glendale, AZ
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FT:
1. You'll need to disassemble the gun so you can remove the varnish or oil from the metal without damage to the wood. Finger nail polish remover should do the trick, but try it out first on some metal that doesn't show.
2. Flitz also does a good job brightening up coin finish. So does Simichrome Polishing Paste. |
_________________ Drew Hause
http://sites.google.com/a/damascusknowledge.com/www/home |
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Posted:
Mon May 21, 2007 5:21 pm
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Joined: 18 Feb 2007
Posts: 56
Location: wny
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just my 0.02--Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner does just about all they say it will do-removes copper,lead and rust--plus it biodegradable---i use Brownells carding brush to give a scrub---wipe down with with Ballistol Oil. |
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Posted:
Wed May 23, 2007 8:39 am
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Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2007
Posts: 972
Location: Keller,TX
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Revdoc, can you suggest where to get good 28 bore tornado brushes? I've been using steel wool wrapped around a .410 brush, but its awful messy. Most places don't stock 28 bore brushes.
Also, on a different note, have you used the Galazan CC lacquer? It doesn't say if it's UV resistant. Most clear water white finishes aren't. |
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Posted:
Wed May 23, 2007 9:09 am
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Member
Joined: 28 Dec 2005
Posts: 2016
Location: Glendale, AZ
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Posted:
Thu May 24, 2007 4:53 am
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Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2007
Posts: 972
Location: Keller,TX
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Posted:
Thu May 24, 2007 6:34 am
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Member
Joined: 02 Dec 2006
Posts: 741
Location: Long Island, NY
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Hey Rev,
Since you are so knowlegable on this subject, and I may only screw it up, why don't you fly into NY, and come on by. I'll set you up a neat place on the workbench. I'll even buy you a cup of coffee... Dunkin Donuts, not that expensive Starbucks stuff.
Now, of course, you do realize that I will inventory my little harem of Frauleins before you leave. There's just no trusting you covetous preacher types. |
_________________ "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind" ... Dr. Seuss
"There aint nothin' better than huntin' with a Setter" |
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Posted:
Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:00 am
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Member
Joined: 28 Dec 2005
Posts: 2016
Location: Glendale, AZ
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