Joined: 28 Oct 2005
OR call Precision Reloading and order some of the new 3/4-7/8oz. wads for the 16 and use 2 3/4"hulls with no fillers--your choice.
The new wad is the product of Charles Hammack, a member of this site, and represents a great deal of work and no small amount of money.
By the way, WELCOME.
Joined: 12 Mar 2005
I'd advise upping the Green Dot charge to 16 grains. I use the same charge in the smaller remington GL16 hull under an R16 wad with one 28 ga card in the shot cup as filler. The load generates about 9.4 to 9.5K PSI and about 1175 FPS. It burns nice and clean and is fairly easy on the shoulder as well. 15 grains would produce well under 8.5K PSI in the Cheddite hull. You will most likely have a lot of unburned powder to clean up.
If you want a very light recoiling load, then take the prevoius suggestion already posted and load 3/4 ounces of shot over the same 16 grain charge. The recoil is about that of a standard velocity 28 gauge load.
youare safe all the way through 17.5 grains of Green Dot for your 7/8 ounce load in a Cheddite hull. so pressure and safety will not be an issue.
Joined: 07 Jan 2009
Location: Covington Tx
Here is a load i have great luck with in my damascus gun , 11.5 grains of Unique with 2 3/4 in hulls an 1.5 oz shot cup with 7/8 oz shot an a 1/2 in fiber wad over the top of the shot it is awsome on clays an cowboy shooting sillouets , No kick hardly at all like a 410 in steroids maybe , T
_________________ Know Christ Know Peace , No Excetions
I you can't Shoot it or cut with it I dont want
to swap fer it
Not clear to me what gun you are shooting. If a fixed-breech gun, any of the light loads mentioned above will work. I've not been able to get my Browning A5 to reliably cycle with less than 1 oz. The Remington 1100 is more amiable to ultra light loads.
What ever primer that is in the cheddite hulls as sold from Prec Reloading.
I have chronographed quite a few shoshell loads in years past, and I know the books spend a lot of print on primer differences in shells as per velocity and pressure, but I dont recall seeing any proven velocity results given and for sure as a result of primer change.
If we look at all the variables in the mix, temp, barrel length, crimp efficiency and probably several other hard to control factors, I submit that its a challenge to really make a judgement on primer differences with velocity results alone.
Obvioussly, if you just get the brass head alone coming out, or the new primer falls out next reload, thats a high pressure sign.
Facts are, its a lot easier for home reloaders to de cipher pressure issues on rifle/pistol ammo using several methods most here are likely aware of.
Considering we are basically using a 20 ga load in a 16 hull, and the "rules" of powder/ejecta/bore capacity still apply, I suspect the early comments about un burned powder may well apply.
I supoose a guy could then dink around with some primer and powder variations, or just go with a little more shot to get the efficiency up a little, which is likely the easiest cure all things considered, if I see too much crude after the fact.
I have a vintage LC Smith, and a recent purchase of a Rizzini 500 these will be used in.
No, I totally agree, aint no way in creation this load would operate an A 5, or any recoil gun, and to see short stoking or non ejection on a gas gun, would come as no surprise either.
Being born in MO, I have to see things I guess, but for sure, will not be surprised to learn that I need to bump up the powder charge or shot a bit, to prevent crude in the bore, or perhaps even an occasional blooper.
and if the bloopers do occur, I will then know for sure, this load aint gonna work as described.
Heck I could write books on things I learned the hard way, instead of just taking some one else's word on it.
_________________ Coincidence is when the good Lord decides to remain anonymous
Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Irish Jack wrote:
Just wondering how to predict vel. and preasure without knowing which primer is being used?
maybe I missed something
You can't Jack. However, if the load in question is a milder mid range load, swapping out any standard strength 209 sized primer will not be likely to put it into the red zone. Most trap and skeet shooters who reload a lot of mild to midrange practice ammo need to find ways to economize. Many have learned that most standard strength 209 sized primers have very close brisence ratings. So buying the most econimical ones available in bulk to save money is a common practice. Most of these folks simply swap out the primer without any other changes to their mild to midrange loads without any problems.
Consult any of the primer brisance rating charts and simply avoid those primers that tend to be hot ones. Hot or magnum strength primers are not really needed for moderate loads and fast to moderate flake powders like the Alliant, Clays, or IMR lines. Aviod doing this if the load is a near max to max load as well. you will not be likely to get into any trouble.
While primer swapping doesn't seem to be a big deal to some folks, as they look at reloading data with the faster burning powders. I guess that folks only see the differences in data that they want to see and ignore the data when it doesn't fit into their tunnel vision world. Kinda like the guys who advocate Cherios and beans for filler materials, top notch ballistic experts.
These kind of guys shouldn't be trusted to push a Tonka truck around a sand box.
Joined: 17 Nov 2005
Location: NW Florida
All you regulars already know this, but be sure to weigh your powder charges. I have a #28 bushing in my 600 which is supposed to throw 17gr of green dot. On the electronic scale I get 16gr. Guess you can't get into too much trouble with the bushing throwing light charges. I should have the info back on my 2.5in RGLs soon. Tom got them last week. Bob
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