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<  16ga. Ammunition & Reloading  ~  2 1/2" or 2 9/16" Shells - What is your reloading
Flytier
PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 12:17 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 18 Nov 2005
Posts: 87
Location: Middle TN

I have an older Browning that I would like to reload for and it needs the shorter hulls. I currently reload with a PW375, but need something different to accomodate the shorter length. What do you use? This will not be heavy volume if that makes a difference.

Thanks in advance,

flytier
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spr310
PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 12:23 pm  Reply with quote
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I just use hulls cut to 2 1/2" and roll crimp. That way I get the same loads in either the 2 3/4" hull or the 2 1/2".
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Flytier
PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 12:53 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 18 Nov 2005
Posts: 87
Location: Middle TN

spr310,

What type of press are you using for sizing, depriming, priming, and wad insertion?

flytier
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spr310
PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 2:01 pm  Reply with quote
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I'm using an old Mec 600 Jr. I also have a LE loadall, but that's just so I can have two powder available at on time. For fold crimping short shells I have some Cnadian quarters super glued together with two Canadian pennies super glued on the bottom of the pile.I like roll crimping better.
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Hootch
PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 3:31 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 1460
Location: Eagle, Nebraska

Ditto on cut hulls and loading same receipie.

I roll crimp. As far as the rest of it, I use the same set up on a Mec Jr, not concerned with crimp so no kit.

Can buy Cheddite and on occasion, 65 or 67mm Fiocchi hulls.
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deer hunter
PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 3:55 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 21 Jun 2009
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Location: western n.y.

so far , i've done quite a few feds @ 2 9/16 - I use a 600 jr and just put an 1/8'' washer on top of the platform . Every so often , I may have to pull a tough one out , but I keep a proper wrench right there to keep things moving . I haven't roll crimped in many years - only did deer slugs back then - do like the look of them though ! (have done quite a few over the years and the platform is still fine)

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spr310
PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 8:54 pm  Reply with quote
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My kit
[img] [/img]
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bcpifish
PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 7:13 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 74
Location: MO Ozarks

flytier -

I use an old Lee LoadAll. I removed the square center post, rotated it 90 degrees and drilled new holes for the mounting screw and wad guide at the appropriate locations. I also cut a square block of hardwood about 4.5" long and inserted it in the center post before I drilled the holes. This both supports the post when you tighten the mounting screw and provides a surface for the spring to ride on.

This sounds complicated when I write it, but it was reall quite simple.

I load for 2 9/16 and this seems to work well for me, especially for the low volumn of hunting loads I produce for my M12.

Good luck.

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putz463
PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 4:22 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 06 Oct 2007
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Location: West MI

I roll crimp everything I load and it works great for short hulls. Pretty much the same as spr310 & Hootch have described.

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UncleDanFan
PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 7:59 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 06 Apr 2007
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Location: The Great Northwet

Ditto. I load lots of 2.5" with a Lee Load all with a removable 1/4" fiber wad under the shell to raise it up. I load mostly cut down 1oz. Federals with Universal Clays and Longshot, SG 16 or Z16's, and CCI or Win 209's, all under 8k psi. I don't star crimp though because they do stick in the crimper for some reason. After roll crimping now for a while, I much prefer it. It gives me more latitude in my recipe selection, more crimp consistency, I can instantly identify which load I have rattling around in my vest, and they look much better with my vintage gun than star crimps in my opinion. Since roll crimping only takes another 7 or 8 seconds more than star crimping, what's not to like?

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KHughes
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 3:17 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 36

If you already have a PW375 with the new style taper crimp dies you have everything you need to load short shells. I loaded 2.5" shells on mine with no problems. You just have to adjust it to do so. If you have the old style dies you will need to buy the taper crimp sizing die and final crimp tool. It is very easy to set a PW375 up to load short shells.

Kent
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BigCreekMI
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 3:39 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 27 Dec 2005
Posts: 582
Location: Great Lakes

Do the older hand operated roll crimpers work well with plastic hulls? I have used an electric hand drill and the Bal Prod crimper with mixed results. Some great, some pretty ugly. Use this method because I understand heat generated by friction, helps. Can you generat sufficient heat with hand crank to do the job?

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skeettx
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 3:50 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 15 Apr 2007
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Location: Amarillo, Texas

Hello

Cut Federal hulls to 2.5 inches
Rem 209 Primer
17.0 grains of Hodgdon Univ Clays
Gualandi 16 Ga Super G Mini Wad ( TUWG1816)
7/8 oz of shot
Six star crimp

Pacific 155 press with lifter under crimp starter
and final crimp die shortened 1/4 inch to provide bull nose.

All is well
Mike
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UncleDanFan
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 4:59 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: The Great Northwet

BigCreekMI wrote:
Do the older hand operated roll crimpers work well with plastic hulls?


Yes.

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Flytier
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:14 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 18 Nov 2005
Posts: 87
Location: Middle TN

KHughes,

The issue I have is I want to roll crimp the shells. The dies for my PW375 are to tight to allow the shell to drop out. I have to push them on station one which means that I would crush the uncrimped hull. I am looking for an older Pacific single stage press to reload with. That should eliminate the problem. If anyone has one, let me know.

flytier
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