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<  16ga. General Discussion  ~  Upland boots, Gore-Tex, and Mink-oil
Dr. David Dabaco
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 2:45 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Lodi, CA

Does anyone use mink-oil on the leather portions of their upland gore-tex boots? I have been told that the mink-oil will affect the stitching and make the otherwise water proof boots leak.

Any truth to this?
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mc15426378
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 4:48 pm  Reply with quote
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Location: Mississippi

David, I have an older (10 yrs) pair of Lacrosse leather/insulated/gore-tex boots and at season end I clean the mud/grime off and givem a generous coating of mink oil. They have never leaked if I did'nt go too deep.

I have though started wearing Muck insulated boots for my duck/deer hunting.
Much easier cleaning and I can go deeper.



Mike
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slemley
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 5:44 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 30 Oct 2009
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Location: Fox Valley, WI

Just like mc said, clean your boots if they get full of mud or a heavy dust and then a generous coating of mink oil. If you don't like the idea of a oil base product look at this http://www.backcountry.com/store/search.html?mv_session_id=iiv2MpmJ&aff=1&q=Nikwax

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slemley
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 5:49 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 30 Oct 2009
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Location: Fox Valley, WI

this is the product that I use on some of my boots, it works great. http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Nikwax-Nubuck-Suede-Spray-On-Footwear-Treatment/NIK0045M.html

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Dr. David Dabaco
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 7:22 pm  Reply with quote
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Sounds good. I have been using Mink-oil for years, but recently had a pair of kangaroo leather boots from Bass Pro leak. They leaked just walking through wet grass. A friend told me that they leaked because I had used mink-oil on them. Sounded strange to me, but ya never know.
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Square Load
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 8:10 pm  Reply with quote
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I have a pair of 3 year old Danner Gore Tex uninsulated boots that leak like a sieve at the bottom of the tongue. They have never had a drop of mink oil put on them. I believe that the problem may be that at the time we hadn't taught the Chinese how to sew up a pair of Gore Tex boots without leaving the Gore Tex full of holes.

Yes, I was shocked when I got them home and saw that Danners are made in China. Would have returned them to Cabelas when I discovered they leaked but they are the most comfortable pair of boots I have ever had on my feet so they just get worn when and where I know they will stay dry. Easy to do in Arizona, which is why I did not find out they leaked until this year while crossing one of the few streams we have here. Sad

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buzzard
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 8:15 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 21 Dec 2009
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Location: west central, ohio

Good evening DR. Dave. I've used mink oil products for years with good results. However, I do know that you can't use it on or near glue joints. Such as wear the upper (leather) is glued to the lower (rubber) on some types of boots and shoes. The oil will cause the leather-glue joint to fail.
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ckirk
PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 10:29 pm  Reply with quote
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Dr. David,

I've used mink oil on a couple pairs of Danner boots with Gore-tex liners over the last ten years and I have not had any ill effects. The Danners are still serviceable. Like mc15426378, I have switched to the Muck boots for slogging through the soupy stuff. The Mucks have pretty good support for a competitively priced rubber boot.

Cheers,

Chris

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last dollar
PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 5:50 am  Reply with quote



Joined: 17 Jul 2008
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Location: Mulege Baja California Sur Mexico

Gotta comment on this one! I am in the field over 100 days per year, and have worn out a lot of boots. I DO use mink oil on the one pair of leather boots I still wear. They are the all singng all dancing high dollar boots from Cabelas. 5 years old and dont leak a drop. BUT I dont wear them all that often, too heavy. For upland use, I have gone to a cheapy boot from Walmart, mfg by Brahma. Fabric, waterproof, goretex clone, and insulated. About 40 bucks. I get a season or a lil more out of them. I wear them out as work boots around the ranch. NOW! I have recently discovered a Slip on knee high boot which is sold at the local mill under the name of "BOGS"! these are awesome...Totally waterproof, insulated to -20 and they go on without even using your hands. Rubber neoprene combo. In the wet snow and Kansas mud, they are unbeatable! And, if memory serves, about 50 bucks. I have worn then walking all day, and sitting in a duck blind....Everyone needs a pair of these...I got my wife a pair for CHRISTmas. Get em one size larger than normal....ypu wont regret it..

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budrichard
PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 7:21 am  Reply with quote
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I use what the manfacturer reccamends for the specfic type of boot, in the present case it is Russell.
Any boot with a stiched seam through the material will eventually leak, its basic physics. Russel boots have a vamp the wraps around the foot that is stiched on top and helps delay leaking. The only boots that won't leak are all rubber boots.
As to mink oil, I doubt its better or worse than any other product on the market, the question to answer is why would you expect it to be better?-Dick

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Golfswithwolves
PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:55 am  Reply with quote
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Recent GoreTex boots that I have used have been excellent for waterproof-ness. As much as I would like to keep the leather on them looking good though, I find that the boots work best with as little grease on the leather as possible. I think that silicone boot dressing is recommended for the leather of GoreTex boots; something about this compound allowing the boots to "breathe" better. Also, although with plain leather boots I never have a problem with perspiration building up inside the boots I definitely notice that this phenomenom does happen with the GoreTex ones (they don't allow as much moisture to pass out of the boots as the advertisements claim Confused ). So for fitting purposes I always take a pair of Odor Eater insoles with me when buying the GoreTex boots. The insoles go into each pair of these boots that I buy in order to prevent the insides of the boots from becoming swampy.

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sneem
PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:43 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 19 Apr 2008
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Just finished putting another coat of mink oil on a 10 year old set of leather Got-Tex hiking boots. Never leaked a drop. I think the Gor-Tex is sufficient, but the mink oil darkens and keeps the leather moist and pliable. Count me a very satisified user.

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aabradley82
PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:07 pm  Reply with quote



Joined: 28 Sep 2008
Posts: 165

i think mink oil is fine for leather and stitching,as is neatsfoot oil. however neatsfoot compound will eat the stitching out pretty quickly. Now what I'd like to know is how ya'll get so many years out of a pair of boots. I'm lucky to make it a year before there toast, no matter the brand
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16gaugeguy
PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2010 11:20 am  Reply with quote
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Any leather item needs some type of oil applied to it to soften and preserve it or it will eventually dry out and crack. The thread used for stitching needs a bit of wax applied to it as well. Leather and goretex have never been that compatible because of this need.

The best goretex boots I have ever owned had no leather. They were an old pair of Rocky Cornstalkers made of Cordura nylon fabric and other synthetics. I finally wore them out after almost 12 seasons of heavy use. They never leaked until two seasons ago. By then, they were on their last legs and looked it. I've not seen any Rocky boots lately, and hope they are still as well made as they used to be.
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onefunzr2
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 6:09 am  Reply with quote
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Dr. David Dabaco wrote:
...recently had a pair of kangaroo leather boots from Bass Pro leak. They leaked just walking through wet grass.


I've had kangaroo leather boots from Browning and Cabelas leak. Neither ever saw any mink oil. Just shoddy manufacturing, I'd wager. Their replacements didn't leak.

How do I make my boots last as long as 12 years? Do not wear them every day...your foot moisture needs to evaporate or else the leather will rot. Simple as that.

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