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Member Joined: 08 Jun 2009 Posts: 321 Location: So Cal

I know a lot of us love using our Auto 5's (and similar models) but how many of us take for granted that they will last forever with only a good cleaning. We've all read the comments about how to make them cycle with x-type of loading. Most of the answers address the magazine tube cleanliness and oiling, or the placement of the bronze friction piece and the friction rings. Those comments are all good and useful, but what I haven't seen are comments on "tuning them up".

Periodically changing the recoil spring, the action spring and the bronze friction piece(s) does make a world of difference in how well the Auto 5's cycle and perform. The parts are relatively inexpensive from Midway and they only take minutes to replace.

Now "periodically" will depend on how old the gun is, how much it's been shot, the type of shells used and how well the gun cycles them. My Sweet 16 and an old (1932 vintage) custom 12ga trap model were working fine, but replacing those 3 parts made them work noticeably better, especially in how much faster the action closed.

Joined: 26 Apr 2010 Posts: 3181 Location: NCWa

The owners manual says to only field strip the A-5, but I have found that it is possible to disassemble the gun completely; which makes it much more convenient to clean. There is a simple means of determining if it is correctly reassembled: when you've put it back together there should be no extra parts.

Member Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 1257 Location: Nebraska

Lack of properly-fitting screwdrivers keeps me from swapping out the recoil spring on my gun. It likely needs internally cleaned up as much as replacement of the spring itself, it seems to drag more than others I've checked. An older gun, it has gone to single shot mode at times even using 1 1/8oz loads and rings set for light.

Member Joined: 08 Jun 2009 Posts: 321 Location: So Cal

The recoil spring is the spring that surrounds the magazine tube. To get to it all you have to do is remove the barrel and the friction piece and rings.

The action spring fits inside the tube that goes thru the tang. To get to it you remove the lower screw on the tang, which allows you to remove the buttstock. (Screwdriver fit can be a problem) While pushing inwards on the action spring plug you can then remove the stop pin that holds it in place. BE SURE TO CONTOL THE SPRING AS YOU REMOVE IT OR IT WILL FLY OUT! To install a new spring open the action and bring the bolt back. You need to do this in order to make sure that the spring fits over the tail piece that extends back from the bolt. Once the spring is on the tail piece you then release the bolt stop and push it forward with the action spring. Be sure to control the spring and the action spring plug until you have it locked back in place with the pin.

I found that my old 1932 customized trap gun did not have an action spring plug that matched what is in the current manuals. It was only a short piece of wood. I didn't replace it yet but plan to. The newer version will act as a guide for the action spring as it recoils.

Also I've found that using one of those flexible-adjustable rubber band type wrenches works great for loosening the magazine cap if it is really tight. Done right, it doesn't damage or mar the cap. I keep one in my shooting kit all the time.

Member Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 1257 Location: Nebraska

Action Spring! That's the one.

Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 728

I've never replaced any of the recoil or action springs in my A5 or model 11s in 50,000+ rounds but I'm sure it can't hurt and might provide a little more "zip" to the action's performance.

When the forend cap nut of an A5 or model 11 is properly adjusted (not tightened) the front edge of the recess at the front of the chamber on the outside of the barrel should be flush or proud to the front edge of the receiver and the back of the barrel that stops the bolt should be just behind the front edge of the ejection port on the receiver so the bolt does not strike the receiver when returning to battery. The correct position of the barrel is usually accomplished 2-4 "clicks" of the detente sping before the cap nut is completely tightened by hand.

The spring detente in the front of the forend under the cap nut prevents the cap nut from loosening and over-tightening the cap nut (even by hand) can crack the forend from compression during very humid conditions and/or require the use of a wrench to remove the cap nut. John Browning would not have provided a knurled forend cap nut if he had intended that it would be adjusted or removed with a wrench. A strap wrench may be useful for a cap nut that is corroded or stuck in place but is not required for an A5 or clone that is properly maintained and operated.

Member Joined: 02 Jan 2008 Posts: 451 Location: La-Tx

The mag cap on an A-5 should be completely tight. Tightened to where most of you would think is too tight is whats proper. There should be no movement possible from the forearm.

Member Joined: 30 May 2007 Posts: 216 Location: Tennessee

+1 for what A5Mag12 said.

Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 728

Tightening the forend cap to the "bottom" (so it no longer turns) does neither you nor your A5/clone any good and can possibly harm the forend. Think about it for a moment...what functional purpose is served by tightening the forend so much that you need a tool to remove it? The gun functions the way it should without the forend cap torqued all the way down. You can, of course, do whatever you feel is right, but the forend cap nut is designed to provide adjustment of the barrel relative to the receiver, not compression of the forend; that's why the cap nut spring detente bearing is in the forend. The cap nut is not designed to be tightened so that a tool(s) are needed to remove it and there is no need to do so unless you feel the need to make it difficult.

Member Joined: 08 Jun 2009 Posts: 321 Location: So Cal

I agree that you "shouldn't have to use a strap wrench" or anything else to remove the magazine cap from an Auto5, but sometimes I've found that it is needed. When I put the magazine cap on I only hand tighten it to the point that it is snug and doesn't want to turn easily so it is not overly tight. But after doing a lot of shooting it can be harder to take off.

If the cap is not seated snugly, then forearm damage can occur. It hasn't happened to mine but I have seen it on other guns, especially to those that didn't have the forearm seated properly against the receiver.

(Hmmm, maybe I should have put this topic under Guns and not Ammo & Reloading but my intent was to address cycling with reload issues.)

Member Joined: 30 May 2007 Posts: 216 Location: Tennessee

Go to the Browning USA website and read either the Light-12 or Magnum 12 (no Sweet 16 owners manual) owner's manual on the site. You will read how to tighten the forend/magazine cap "tightly" per Browning plus a red section below this section warning that the cap needs to be put on "tightly". Says nothing about backing off 2-4 clicks.

BT16ga

Member Joined: 30 May 2007 Posts: 216 Location: Tennessee

Winchester 21:

I carry in my gun cleaning box a pair of pliers with rubber padded jaws to take off too tight magazine caps. Also carry a pair in my truck in case I come across an A5 or other gun that has a magazine cap on too tightly that I may want to purchase.

BT16ga

Member Joined: 02 Jan 2008 Posts: 451 Location: La-Tx

Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 728

I have, and always will, tighten the forend cap until the front of the barrel recess aligns with the front edge of he receiver then back off 1-2 clicks of the detente bearing. This setting does not damage the forend (not in 50,000 rounds through 5 different A5s and model 11s anyway), always allows the forend nut to be removed by hand (even after hundreds of rounds) and the guns always function perfectly fine.

The forend nut needs to be tightened enough so the bolt and/or handle does not hit the front of the ejection port when the bolt is in battery and tightening it any more does not "secure" the forend any better, just possibly compress it more than it should. Tightening any more than this amount is unecessary unless you like carying around a strap wrench or rubber coated pliers. Try it for yourself sometime and you'll see what I mean.

Member Joined: 02 Jan 2008 Posts: 451 Location: La-Tx

I have and always will do what my knowledge of physics and mechanics tell me to do which just happens to be what Browning and every good smith that knows A-5's say's to do.